Author: Tom
Developed, tested and perfected at the ASICS Institute for Sport Science in Kobe Japan, the GEL-QUANTUM INFINITY is the pinnacle of ASICS Gel technology, and is the first shoe to feature a full length Gel sole from toe to heel. ASICS Gel Technology was first introduced in 1986 in the ASICS Freaks model as a way of reducing impact injuries among runners, the silicone based substance was infused into the EVA midsole with the goal of absorbing shock and dissipating vibration. Runners and non-runners were taken with the comfort that Gel provided, and now the technology has become synonymous with the ASICS brand.
The ASICS GEL QUANTUM INFINITY is the epitome of the technology’s use and aesthetic, and features a distinct design coupled with full length, durable and supportive GEL technology. The shoe features a unique no sew, vacuum upper that ensure stability and support and compliments the sole. The red and gold detailing seen throughout the shoe culminates in the embossed Japanese Katakana character on the heel which means ‘Infinity’.
The ASICS GEL QUANTUM INFINITY | Now available in-store. Sizes range from UK6.5 – UK12, priced at £170.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf7nC3v-afk
Alongside the Chuck Taylor, the Converse One Star is one of the brand’s most recognisable and celebrated silhouettes. First introduced in 1970 as Converse’s answer to shifting footwear trends in the basketball scene, the One Star began to gain a cult following that grew and grew over the years. 2017 in particular was a huge year for the silhouette as a One Star resurgence hit the market, and thanks to creative ventures such as the Converse One Star hotel and collaborations with the likes of Tyler, the Creator and Yung Lean, the shoe was introduced to an entirely new generation of sneakerheads.
While the suede iterations with the low-key branding are most well known in todays market, the Converse One Star was initially introduced in leather. Wearing that brands collegiate and sporting influences on it’s sleeve the One Star Academy was first released in a Black/White and White/Red/ colour-way and featured racing stripes either side of the now iconic Star logo and a thicker, vulcanised rubber sole.
For 2018 Converse are reintroducing the retro silhouette (alongside the Lucky Star Collection) in it’s original form. The Converse One Star Academy is Now available online. Sizes range from UK6 – UK12 (including half sizes), priced at £70.
Converse are a brand built on heritage. Although they are highly relevant in the contemporary footwear industry, the majority of the silhouettes we know and love today have a long and storied history. For example, the Chuck Taylor – one of the most widely recognisable shoes on the market – has over 100 years of heritage behind it, and the Converse One Star has remained roughly the same since the 1970’s.
The brands latest offering, The Converse Lucky Star, is no different. The Lucky Star was first introduced in 1967 under the name Chuck Taylor Lucky Star, however despite sharing a name and similar shape with its predecessor, that’s where the similarities end.
The Lucky Star was almost entirely different in its construction, featuring a unique toe bumper, a durable Army Duck upper and full-length sponge in-sole. The Lucky Star High and Lucky Star Oxford, both featured a refined and more Americanised take on the classic Chuck Taylor shape and wore the brands collegiate influences far more overtly. The Converse Lucky Star High collection will be available online from Saturday 8th of December, sizes range from UK6 – UK11 (including half sizes), with prices ranging from £65 – £70.
Converse’s strong understanding of the past makes them the go-to brand for those who appreciate clean, classic design. And with the brand reaching into their vault to release another perfect example of this, we felt it only right to speak to some of these people and get their thoughts on brands longevity.
Rav Matharu is a brand consultant and creative director of bespoke London streetwear brand clothsurgeon, who specialise in luxury deconstructed design and Saville Row style tailoring. We sat down with Rav in his Hackney studio to discuss design, the Converse Lucky Star, and his love for the Chuck Taylor 70.
Footpatrol: For those who are not familiar with you and your work please can you introduce yourself and tell us a little bit about your background?
Rav Matharu: I am creative director of men’s Bespoke Streetwear brand clothsurgeon, also a Brand Consultant. My youth was spent mostly chasing a football. I signed pro at 17 for Leeds United after coming through their ranks from the age of 11. Things did not work out and fell out of love with the beautiful game.
So, I took my hand to design, Something I have been doing from a young age, I have been drawing and obsessing over product for many years.So, I went back into education, and graduated from Leeds College of Art&Design with a 1st class degree in Fashion Design&Technology.
FP: How did you get into Fashion, and what was it like starting your own brand?
RM: After a string of internships, I then moved to London. My vast array of sneakers got sold one by one to keep myself afloat in such a financially demanding city.
I started working with a small brand, and after 3 years as their head designer, I decided it was time to start my own thing, where I could have full creative control.It was extremely daunting, but felt it was the right time. Fortunately, the brand gained a lot of attention straight from the offset.
FP: Where do you get the inspiration/ideas for some of your pieces?
RM: I get this question asked all the time, I never think I have the “right” answer. I feel it’s mainly down to constantly observing people, product, design, from the past and present. I spent so many hours coming home from school and trawling the net for vintage sportswear, I would search the same things every day, but each day I would learn or find something new. It never got tired,and still excites me.
Research is such an important part of the process and analysing that knowledge to refine and create your final piece.
FP: With the fashion industry constantly changing and lines being blurred between streetwear & high fashion, how do you interpret the current state of the fashion industry?
RM: I think it’s moving faster than ever, with social platforms. Hence why I feel there is so many more collaborations, we have to keep the consumer intrigued and excited.
clothsurgeon Bespoke offers that excitement for the customer and more, they can be the “designer” they can create something that suits them call it your streetwear Savile row if youwish. Or come with an idea and let me develop it with them. Producing something timeless, quality, that is constructed with pride and passion!
FP: Your bespoke programme has become immensely popular around the world with all sorts of artists, footballers etc coming to see you when they are in town. Why is it important for you to offer this service alongside your collections?
RM: clothsurgeon is primarily a bespoke brand, and our unique approach to streetwear is what really sets us apart from all other brands. We give the customer the opportunity to createwhatever they wish, any silhouette from any fabrics, I guide the client through this process with in depth knowledge of the full process, drawing to finished garment. Collections allow me to tell a story delve into my research to create something new.
FP: We know you’re a massive fan of the Chuck 70s silhouette, can you remember your first pair of Converse you owned?
RM: No, I don’t think I can remember the first pair, I do remember buying various colours in the regular chuck hi and wearing odd colours…. With Evisu jeans and good enough GDEH t-shirts…. That was a look! Shout out Hip Store in Leeds!
FP: What is it about the Chuck 70 which makes it so relevant and desirable to you?
RM: Chuck 70 is simple genius for me, the small changes really make a difference. Higher midsole, shiny rubber band, stitch detail, heavier Canvas and vintage branding really make it something else, something that draws you to it more than a regular chuck. The Japanese do this so well. I think it was quarter-backed by Matt Sleep, who I briefly know from Crooked Tongues days, so good to see so many heads from that forum doing well. True product lovers, sub merged in the “culture”. It’s also what I have sub-consciously been studying for the last 25 years.
Trying to break down what makes me like that product so much? Silhouette? Stitching? Detail? Fabrication? Finishing? there is so much that goes into a well-designed product. Chuck 70 is all of that.
FP: A key signature in your work is deconstruction, taking one thing apart and making again as something else. Have you ever done this with a pair of Converse?
RM: I have never done it witch a converse shoe, maybe in the future…. Could be fun.
FP: How do you feel the Lucky Star fits in to the current Converse roster, and what were your first impressions upon seeing them today?
RM: First impressions are that, I think vintage Americana, going to the diner in your letterman varsity or cardigan, bit of Chubby Checker, bit of twist dancing, you get my drift! It has that collegiate vibe which I love.
FP: What can we expect to see from clothsurgeon going into 2019?
RM: More heat! Collaborations, collections, consultancy and bespoke…. Lots to do!
Although the year may be (nearly) drawing to a close, Nike are still set to add a few more entries into their already impressive collaborative output for 2018, with the next offering being a collaboration with Carhartt WIP. Carhartt WIP was founded in 1989 with the goal of bringing classic American workwear to a design conscious European audience, and have since been producing elevated and experimental versions of Carhartt classics, such as the Chore Coat, Anchorage Parka and Overalls.
This design philosophy of elevating workwear materials is a key component in the Nike x Carhartt WIP collaboration, as all four silhouettes feature classic Carhartt materials and design elements. The Air Force 1 Low and Vandal High Supreme, both make use of Dearborn Canvas, with the former being dressed in the classic Hamilton Brown colour, with the latter coming in a more subtle black colour-way. Both shoes feature iconic design elements typically found on the Carhartt Chore Coat, such as corduroy panelling on the heel, and the distinct Chore Coat lining that can be found inside the shoe.
The Air Force 1 Low Utility and Air Max 95 both feature Carhartt’s Ripstop material, dressed in the brands signature Tiger Camo. Notable design features include neon orange air units on the 95 and a magnetic fastening mechanism on the Utility Low. All four shoes also feature, co Nike and Carhartt branding.
The Nike x Carhartt WIP Holiday 18 collection will be coming soon to Footpatrol…!
To celebrate our Vans VAULT collaboration, we’ve curated a unique photography exhibition that explores the history and rich heritage of the ever-changing face of Soho. Soho is our home, and influences everything we do (directly or not), so we felt celebrating the area and the people was incredibly important. Over the years Soho has changed quite drastically, however in amongst the Prets, the coffee chains and the new-build flats, the heritage of the area is still present. Soho today may look and feel different to the Soho of yesteryear, however the people and community have largely stayed the same, and that’s arguably what gives the area it’s character.
The exhibition was attended by those who follow our brand as well as consumers of Vans and admirers of photography. The event space located in the middle of Soho on Greek St, presents a blank canvas for to display the photographers work on. With each corner occupied by framed photographs, a DJ booth was also set up to provide good music, a merch table that included t-shirts, a disposable camera, string bag and mini photographs. The windows covered in Footpatrol x Vans vinyl along with a display of the all 3 models of footwear.
The photos were taken by Alex Husley, Tori Fenrec & Ollie Grove respectively, who were each given a different theme – People, Abstract and Documentary – and sent out into the streets of Soho. The result is a body of work that we feel captures the area perfectly, with surrealist imagery grounded by portraits of Soho’s eclectic natives and more contemporary, everyday sights.
The ‘Soho Since Forever’ exhibition is located at 59 Greek Street, London, W1D 3DZ and is open to the public until Sunday 2nd December.
The footwear collection is Now Available exclusively online at Footpatrol.com and in our Paris and London locations. Prices range from £75 – £95.
#TEAMFP
In the mid-80’s the global jogging craze was at it’s peak, running was becoming more inclusive and runners more diverse, therefore a shoe was needed to meet the growing demand. When the ZX series was first introduced it revolutionised the running shoe by tailoring the performance of the shoe directly to the runners needs and introducing never before seen technology (such as Torsion and Soft Cell Cushioning) to the market. When French designer Jacques Chassaing and his team first introduced the ZX500 in 1984 it was intended for full-time athletes, however over time the ZX series quickly found a cult following outside of it’s intended audience.
Last week we were invited to the ‘ZX – The Roots of Running’ exhibition to get a detailed look at the ZX series and to learn more about the future of the line. The exhibition featured some of the very first entries into the series as well as a look at the future, including the nightly anticipated ZX4000 4D. The evening culminated with a panel featuring the man behind the ZX line, Jacques Chassaing. We were lucky enough to sit down with Jacques and get some insight into the ZX line:
Footpatrol: How did you get involved in adidas?
Jacques Chassaing: At the beginning of my career I started doing dress shoes for men and women, but my dream was always to join adidas. I wanted to get involved with sportswear and create for athletes and try and find solutions to their problems. I did this in 1981 when I began to head up the ‘design’ team (back then we weren’t called designers like today, we were typically known as creators) at adidas France, I then joined adidas in Germany at the beginning of the 90’s.
FP: How did this role at adidas translate into you working on the ZX collection?
JC: When I started with adidas in the 80’s they already running shoes, but when you do sports shoes there needs to be a common theme so you can create a big collection. In a big company and the purpose of a company is business, and to do business you need to sell, and to sell you need to present the collection. From a business point having a collection made sense.
But from a performance point of view the idea was to have a variety of running shoes and structure them according to the athlete. When you study running you have three different types of runners – Neutral, Support and Guidance. The first being someone who has no issues running, the second being someone who requires more support from their shoes and the third being someone who runs fast and with their forefoot, therefore they need a shoe that guides them. So, we made the shoes according to this, and to the needs of each runner.
We started with the ZX500 which was meant to be a more stable support shoe, when you look at the shoe it has this motion control device on the top, which gives the runner a feeling of stability and support.
FP: How did the numbering system of the ZX collection come about?
JC: A lot of people ask “why ZX” or “why ZX500?” it was 83/84 when the whole thing started, and this was more or less a marketing idea, it had nothing to do with any scientific thinking, it was just a gut feeling. It was a trend going on with motorbikes at the time, Kawasaki started to do a ZX500 motorbike, and the idea was to create that link between the shoes and the bikes. You need a different bike and different tires for riding on different surfaces, and with running shoes it was more or less the same thing. It started with 500 (because you have to start with something) and carried on from there.
Within the first three models we were able to provide something for the a variety of different runners. The ZX500 was a support shoe, whereas the ZX600 was a different thing entirely and was built more for running on the road. The 700 was more rugged and was our first attempt at producing a trail running shoe (we never said it was, but it was an early attempt).
FP: How did the ZX range go from the hundreds to the thousands?
JC: The hundred-series ended with the ZX930 in 1988 and at that time we were working on a new concept and a new technology, which was Torsion. This took some time, and the first Torsion was ready to release in 1989. The name ZX already had success behind it and with any innovation or any product the name is very important, the name appeals to the consumer and if it’s not interesting people won’t care, so we decided to keep ZX. But to highlight the difference between the first series and this new series the idea was to use thousands rather than hundreds in the model name.
When you bring out something innovative and want to be successful you need to make an impact, this can be done with the technology itself, but it can also be done aesthetically, with colour. With the thousand-series the decision was to go with bright, aggressive colours.
The 80’s was an era filled with neon colours and people wanted to push the boundaries of design, so the colours of the four-digit ZX series really fit with the times. We wanted to stand out, even from the hundred series. Coming in with a new technology we had to make a statement and wake the consumer up.
FP: How does it feel seeing more modern technology in the ZX Series?
JC: ZX was always a series for innovation, in the 80’s it was Torsion and the material used in the midsole, the design of the outsole etc, and today it’s boost and 4D. For me the ZX series was the best place to try new things. Boost is an innovation which is performance based, but at the same time it’s impactful because of the way it looks, the consumer sees it and they see something different. 4D is also a technological advance which should also be placed in the ZX collection, because the philosophy behind ZX is that it’s the place to try these new things.
The ‘ZX – The Roots of Running’ exhibition is open to the public until Sunday 2nd December and is located at 21-23 Earlham Street London WC2H 9LL.
To celebrate our Vans VAULT collaboration, we’ve curated a unique photography exhibition that explores the history and rich heritage of the ever-changing face of Soho. Soho is our home, and influences everything we do (directly or not), so we felt celebrating the area and the people was incredibly important. Over the years Soho has changed quite drastically, however in amongst the Prets, the coffee chains and the new-build flats, the heritage of the area is still present. Soho today may look and feel different to the Soho of yesteryear, however the people and community have largely stayed the same, and that’s arguably what gives the area it’s character.
Soho is known for being an area of self-expression, whether that is expression is sartorial, artistic or something more illicit, almost anything goes around here, and people are free to be authentic. Therefore we felt it important to celebrate this community as Soho and it’s people have been a source of inspiration for us since we moved here. To do this we’ve curated a photography exhibition alongside Vans VAULT that celebrates the people, places and day-to-day aesthetic of the area.
The exhibition features work from Alex Husley, Tori Fenrec & Ollie Grove, who were each given a different theme – People, Abstract and Documentary – and sent out into the streets of Soho. The result is a body of work that we feel captures the area perfectly, with surrealist imagery grounded by portraits of Soho’s eclectic natives and more contemporary, everyday sights.
The ‘Soho Since Forever’ exhibition will be located at 59 Greek Street, London, W1D 3DZ and will be open to the public from Friday 30th November to Sunday 2nd December with a pre-launch event Thursday 29th November of which everyone is welcome!
The footwear collection is Now Available exclusively online at Footpatrol.com and in our Paris and London locations, sizes range from UK3 – UK12 (including half sizes). Prices range from £75 – £95.
Photography by Alex Husley
Photography by Tori Fenrec
Photography by Ollie Grove
Footpatrol has always had a strong appreciation for heritage – whether it be in the form of paying homage to the area we call home or our appreciation for heritage footwear, there’s always been a story to tell. This made our partnership with Vans VAULT feel all the more natural. Vans have a long and storied history, which we were keen to tap into for our first collaboration with the heritage skate brand. For this collection we’ve taken three classic Vans VAULT silhouettes- the Classic Slip-On LX, SK8-Hi and Old Skool LX – and elevated them using premium materials, whilst highlighting original details from each model.
Each pair features a mix of premium materials such as hairy suede and 10oz drill canvas utilising classic Vans colours. The contrast in the colour palette brings a unique two-tone aesthetic to the collection, that can be found on the upper and perhaps less noticeably, on the sole of the shoe. Other design details include a smooth vulcanised toe-cap across all three models, embossed kerb stone details on the medial side (a nod to the kerb stone markings found in Soho) and Footpatrol branding on the lateral midsole panel, along with co-branded repeat graphic laces. Further subtle details can be found throughout all three models such as the two-toned elastic gore panels on the Classic Slip-On LX and the stitching on the SK8-Hi lace-stay. Soho is an area full of details that can be easily missed in the rush of one’s daily routine, therefore including hidden details in this collaboration was another perfect way to honour the area and utilise the Vans VAULT silhouettes. In addition, the items included in the photography have a distinct tie into the Soho area.
To celebrate our Vans VAULT collaboration, we’ve curated a unique photography exhibition that explores the history and rich heritage of the ever-changing face of Soho. Soho is our home, and influences everything we do (directly or not), so we felt celebrating the area and it’s people was incredibly important. Entitled ‘Soho Since Forever’ the exhibition features works from Alex Husley, Tori Fenrec & Ollie Grove and focusses on the people, surroundings and everyday aesthetic that make Soho so important to so many people.
The ‘Soho Since Forever’ exhibition will be located at 59 Greek Street, London, W1D 3DZ and will be open to the public from Friday 30th November. The footwear collection is now available exclusively online at Footpatrol.com and in our Paris and London locations respectively. Sizes range from UK3 – UK12 (including half sizes), prices range from £75 – £95.
After relentless teasing, speculation and guesswork the coveted YEEZY 500 ‘Salt’ will be releasing on Friday 30th November 2018. Unlike the more widely known YEEZY 350 Boost, the YEEZY 500 has released in more muted colour-ways and Kanye West and adidas look to continue this trend with the newest ‘Salt’ iteration.
Without a doubt Nike’s most well known running system is the Nike Air Max, with the majority of people not only owning a pair but actually understanding how the technology works. While Air Max has certainly created an impact and become a house hold name at this point, the Swoosh have a number of other running systems that may not be as well known to the mainstream. One of the most intriguing being Nike Shox.
Shox technology was developed in 1984, three years before the Air Max 1, by Nike designer Bruce Kilgore, who is perhaps most famous for being the man behind the Air Force 1. The technology was first conceived when Nike designers were observing runners on a polyurethane track at Harvard University, and saw how the track would sink in and provided energy return to the runners while simultaneously not hindering their performance. This lead Nike to try and replicate this process, and after a number of trials and errors, eventually they landed on Nike Shox technology, which featured four visible polyurethane pillars in the heel of the shoe. It wasn’t until 2000 however that the Shox hit the shelves, however the hype took off quickly.
Although Nike Shox technology was designed for runners it quickly found a place in the basketball industry, and was made particularly famous by Vince Carter who performed an inhuman slam dunk at the 2000 Olympic Games while wearing a pair of Nike Shox BB4’s. The extraordinary feat of athleticism was more effective than any marketing campaign, and quickly solidified the Nike Shox BB4 as the shoe to have for aspiring athletes and sneakerheads alike, and lead to a great deal of interest in the line.
Whereas the BB4 was more of performance shoe, the Nike Shox R4 was quickly embraced as a lifestyle shoe due to it’s sleek futuristic design and comfort of the Shox technology. Throughout the 2000’s Shox had a number of different iterations and colour-ways (including a luxe thigh-high iteration designed for Serena Williams), however was eventually put to one side by the Swoosh in-favour of other shoes.
It wasn’t until Comme des Garcon revealed their luxury take on the silhouette at their SS19 Paris Fashion Week show, that the shoe was introduced to a more contemporary audience. After the initial buzz of the PFW show, Nike revealed they would be bringing back the Shox line, starting with a twist on the very first R4 model.
The Nike Shox R4 Silver/Red is Now Available. Sizes range from UK6 – UK12 (including half sizes), priced at £115.
