Author: Jake Archer
Few of us can withstand the cravings for bacon and knowing this, Nike look back to one of the most iconic iterations of the Air Max 90 that first came to light back in 2004. Sporting a range of deep reds and light pink hues, this colour blocking perfectly reflects the various stages of preparation.
To celebrate the upcoming return of the Air Max 90 ‘Bacon’, we enlisted the help of Elliot Cunningham from Eat Lagom to conjure up one of his culinary delights that spoke true to the ‘Bacon’. Elliot talks us through his journey so far and the burger he brought to life to celebrate this revisit.
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Footpatrol: Firstly, we must say a massive thank you for joining us for the revisit of the Nike Air Max 90 ‘Bacon’, we couldn’t have thought of a better person to build a connection between food and the sneaker!
Elliot: Well thank you for having me, it’s an absolute pleasure to have been asked to collab on such a fun project.
FP: We must start with your story, could you give our audience a little bit of background to yourself and Lagom?
EC: So my name is Elliot, and I have been working as a chef in London for the best part of 8 years. I feel very fortunate to have worked with, and alongside some of the best in the industry. I’m Swedish/English/Chinese mix, for me and my family, food was always a fun and exciting part of our day. We loved food growing up, all mucking in together or helping one of the parents create a feed for the gannets. After a short stint at uni, with the aim to become a doctor, I left my studies behind to pursue a career in food – finding any job/opportunity I could and running with it. It was after a few years, that I felt confident enough to start my own food venture – Lagom. Recently I have launched a new concept as an off-shoot of Lagom, following its principles, but focussing on woodfired pizza – ELD pizza.
FP: Our understanding is that Lagom kind of means “Not too much, not too little”, would that be correct? If not then we feel it still perfectly sums up what it is you do. The food has a sense of simplicity about it but the flavours are always spot on.
EC: Well the word has no direct translation partly why I felt it was such a brilliant word to use for us; it starts a conversation, like good food should. A swedish word for the right amount, or thereabouts. Our Lagom aims to showcase bbq as not just pulled pork, ribs and burned sausages. We try to focus on the little details, that’s what makes our bbq what it is – from sourcing, to seasoning.
FP: One thing we’ve always enjoyed when we’ve come down to visit you is the variety of meats available within your burgers, whether that’s the goat cheese burger, the featherblade bun or the pastrami burger… It’s great to get such a range of meats that you wouldn’t normally find anywhere else with such a chilled out, BBQ vibe… What is it that makes you offer such a variety?
EC: I feel traditional barbecue typically isn’t very sustainable: the same favourite cuts used week in, week out – quantities cooked on mass. It didn’t sit well with me, as I’m aware that we all need to make an effort to reduce our meat intake and support the little guys. This results in a menu that changes, and means things aren’t always on the menu but will feature as specials when they become available. It’s this core idea we try and focus on, and a good example of this would be our goat meat burger – no need to grind down a whole forequarter of beef just for burgers when we were able to find a product that could rival the beef, purely with trims from more desired cuts.
FP: So just how important is it to try and cook with the best meat you can? We’re guessing, it can make or break the meal?
EC: Absolutely – you get out, what you put in. Use a cheaper piece of meat, expect to work for that end result. Use a great piece, and you will have to do very little to let that product sing.
FP: Although 2020 has been one of the most difficult years, especially for the hospitality sector, we saw you begin a new venture alongside Lagom, ELD pizza, just how did this come about?
EC: So Eld was a pop up we did last year, in an attempt to keep the wheels rolling, and our staff happy. I also like to be busy…. Following a successful few weeks at a cafe residencey in clapton we sought out a permanent home for Eld, on Hackney Road. Things age going great there, and we are excited for our official opening.
FP: We feel your pizza offering is similar to your burgers above, such a unique, yet simple offering, constantly experimenting with new things, is this what you love about cooking?
EC: I make food I want to eat, no frills just simple product led food that we are not afraid to have fun with along the way. This for me gets the best response.
FP: Now, to bring it back to why we’re here, the Nike Air Max 90 ‘Bacon’ and we understand you’re going to cook up a classic Lagom bacon burger, could you tell us a bit more about this creation and how people could make it at home?
EC: So our burger is very simple but relies on the core ingredients to do the talking; simply seasoned aged beef mince, dry aged bacon, punchy mustard mayo, pickle juice, American cheese and super soft milk bun.
The way we cook ours also relies heavily on the process – we smash em! So rather than forming a patty first, we just weigh up a ball of mince and place that directly onto our hot griddle – you can use a big non stick frying pan.
Place a square of greaseproof over the ball and press it flat with a spatula; be firm and press it out – this allows maximum contact = maximum crust = maximum flavour. The fat content (32-6) allows you to get maximum crust without it drying out.
Season with salt and coarse pepper, flip and throw on one slice of American cheese, your pre grilled bacon more cheese and your bun lid.
Place mustard Mayo on the bottom bun, and your dressed slaw, load on the cooked patty and cheesey goodness and you’re good to go!
FP: A Massive thank you for joining us for today to celebrate this launch and for creating some amazing food along the way!
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The YEEZY 700 V3 Kyanite features an upper composed of monofilament engineered mesh with RPU overlays for structure and durability while the bootie construction provides a snug adaptable fit. The RPU cage has glow in the dark features that provide a unique look and feel. This model features no-tie stretch laces for easy on and off wear and comes equipped with a second set of standard laces. The PU encapsulated EVA midsole provides comfort and durability, and the herringbone rubber outsole offers unique design cues and improved traction.
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The YEEZY BOOST 700 V2 Cream features an upper composed of full-grain leather and nubuck overlays that offer a premium finish, soft hand feel, along with a supportive and durable wear. Roller knit underlays provide lightweight breathability and comfort where it is needed while reflective details throughout add unique design cues and visual interest. The full-length BOOST drop-in midsole offers the ultimate underfoot cushioning experience.
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Whats more comfier than a perfectly fitting, crisp white T-shirt? Nike thought the same so looking back to the turn of the millennium, Nike revisit their Air Presto silhouette to celebrate its 20th anniversary.
The Air Presto made waves within the sneaker scene thanks to its simplistic design that redefined the boundaries of modern footwear which is instantly shown via the five dots displayed on the midsole. This was a signal to its inclusion within their Alpha Project which housed some of their most innovative and forward thinking trainers. With that original question in mind, the Air Presto’s philosophy was born to adapt that look and feel of a T-shirt and was the brain child of a certain Tinker Hatfields brother, Tobie Hatfield.
To celebrate this 20th anniversary, Nike look towards their exclusive co.jp collection and the ‘Crimson Siren Red’ colour way. A vibrant gradient of colours are dressed across its super soft mesh making this a ‘T-shirt for the Foot’.
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The Air Jordan 1 has been full steam ahead for a number of years and Jordan Brand doesn’t seem to be stopping at any station just yet. Since the start of the year, the Air Jordan 1 has seen a number of releases such as the AJ1 ‘Citus Gold’ and AJ1 85 ‘Neutral Grey’ respectively. However, they’ve also focused on their Zoom line with the recent AJ1 Zoom ‘LDN’.
Now reverting back to the OG High cut, this next rendition is closer to home. Jordan Brand have focused on their Univerity Blue hue’s once again. With the original AJ1 ‘University Blue’ releasing in 1985, many similar versions have released over the years and have been popular to consumers and collectors alike.
Familiar colours, applied with a classic colour-blocking scheme, characterise this Air Jordan 1. The shoe brings genuine University Blue suede material and leather underlays to the ankle, heel and toe, with black on the Swoosh and collar and contrasting white on the quarter panel, midsole, tongue and toe box. A black Wings logo with University Blue branding on the tongue helps finish off the model’s clean and classic detailing.
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The YEEZY 450, the first YEEZY model to be Made in Germany, features a unique design language with an industry-leading technology that uses advanced automated manufacturing throughout the production process. The one-piece premium knit and sock-like construction provides an adaptable fit with exceptional comfort. Meanwhile, a soft PU injected midsole compound offers high-performance rebound and cushioning, delivering an innovative, one-of-a-kind aesthetic.
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To celebrate 30 years of the Nike Air Huarache and relive each step that dragged Tinker Hatfield’s thermoplastic strap donning silhouette into the industry’s cut-throat limelight, Footpatrol and Morprime IndustriesTM have teamed up to cover every landmark, hiccup and even a handful of substories that lead to this model so sitting proudly at the forefront of technological innovation. Without further ado, follow us on a journey from 1991 until the present day; pulling apart thirty years of unadulterated excitement.
Re-writing global sportswear and fashion trends wasn’t an easy feat, in fact Nike have been working with and Tinker-ing the Air Huarache for three decades now. The man himself joined Swoosh in 1981, utilising his love for architecture to help line our shelves with some of the most aesthetically pleasing sneakers on the market. His jump into footwear’s design pool happened a mere four years after joining Nike.
Initial Air Huarache price tags sat at $110 and $100 GS respectively, however certain issues ushered Hatfield’s sketches into the shadows from day one. It was a case of first-run orders sitting below 50 units, taking product manager Tom Hartge to trust Tinker’s range and forge an order for 5000 units. This paid off, with each and every pair of the 9.5 ounce sneakers going home with a new owner during a three day stall-sale at New York’s Marathon. From here, Nike saw orders surpass half a million units – success was the next stop.
GB sprinter Derek Redmond was somewhat overshadowed in the sneaker-verse by his father, Jim, despite multiple World Championship medals. He carved a solo route into the Huarache ‘Hall of Fame’ by supporting his injured son across Barcelona’s ‘92 Olympics Semi Final finishing-line. What makes this so key, is the featured tee bestowing Nike’s ‘Have You Hugged Your Foot Today?’ advert, worn by Redmond Senior.
Media coverage didn’t persuade everyone, particularly publication ‘Runner’s World’ who slated the neoprene and lycra sneaker’s level on-foot breathability; a remarkably contrasting claim to that awarded by our now disparaged ‘The Source’ team. They handed Nike a gold star for ‘Shoe Technology of the Year’ to commemorate a sneaker inundated with space-age features; this tale of two halves gave early insight into an ensuing 30 year rollercoaster.
In the same year, North America’s NBA witnessed an Air Flight Huarache maze from court-to-couch, protecting the toes of superstars Pippen and Reggie Miller to name but a few. Kobe Bryant curated an immense library of Player Exclusive (PE) iterations throughout 2003, feeding nicely into 2004’s Zoom Huarache 2K4. It is said that the 2K4 silhouette wore an unofficial signature badge to fill a gap whilst legalities and ties from Kobe’s time with previous sponsors were erased. Until the Zoom Kobe 1 debuted in January 2006, he wore a miscellaneous of Huarache iterations completed by Erik Avar with Tinker’s guidance on fulfilling the outsole pattern and other minor details.
Retrospectively, the University of Michigan’s Chris Webber led squad constructed a perfect environment for Swoosh to further aid the cut-out sneaker’s 1991 hard-court takeover – suiting their team’s unfiltered, new-age style with inch perfect precision. Baggy attire, black socks and Air Flight Huarache – the unwritten recipe for success.
The Huarache name wasn’t only synonymous amongst circles of sneaker collecting fandom, a statement made painstakingly obvious as we observe the level of historical influences Nike’s palette planners took on board, dressing 1991’s silhouette in elaborately planned colour schemes designed to demand attention. Variations in green, shades of black and off-white tones attributed 1988-90’s ESCAPE collection, with ‘88’s Windrunner playing its part when designers drafted Stussy’s soon-to-be SMU – and of course, 2003’s very own Air Huarache ‘Escape’ namesake.
Nike tends to launch hybrids to aid the exploration of previously untapped markets, yet 2007’s Huarache trifecta may not be seen as so traditional. They pulled a second 1991 neoprene-ridden, heel-strap wearing silhouette from Tinker’s infinitely impressive and expanding portfolio – this time, lending a mid-height contribution from ACG’s rural Oregon branch. This version swapped mesh for perforated leather, going on to splash each panel in OG MOWABB colours thus displaying DNA from both sides of the fence. Many saw this gang as a final ‘Hua-rrah’ before dropping the silhouette in the short term.
Without a shadow of doubt, the Air Huarache’s impact on street and sports-CULTURE was that of biblical proportions – finding a middle-ground between basketball, running, going on to touch base with leisurewear and even tennis. Interpreting things differently, what impact did the CULTURE alone have on the success of this article footwear engineering? Well, MTV aired a Nike advert in 1992 focussing on purple lycra, USA World Champion sprinter Michael Johnson and the OG pair of Air Huarache ‘Purple Punch’.
Ayrton Senna, MC Serch and Mike Tyson were all photographed in their own pair of brightly coloured lycra-booties, as the technology became accessible to the masses.
Following Tom Hartge’s risky business that make 1991 so profitable, orders rocketed from sub-50 to beyond 250,000; furthermore, Tinker was quoted by Kahn, French and Corral in their 2017 hard-back ‘SNEAKERS’ announcing over four million sales during a single fiscal year on the market. His efforts made Hatfield’s idea float, where it naturally faded only to be brought back into the public eye early-2013 bearing a ‘What are you sayin. #huaracheAIR #STUSSY,’ Twitter caption. Global media welcomed Joey Essex to the stage as he wore Stussy’s millennium- curbing olive SMU during a photoshoot; aligning himself at the centre of Nike’s 2013 Huarache rebirth.
In other news, the SMU’s backstory is a thing of great fortune…
Simon Porter was in contact with Nike’s Jason Fulton asking specifically for ‘unique product’ to line shelves soon after opening Stussy’s FIRST London Chapter store. It just so happened
that four QS were in the works; The Hideout took two Footscapes, whereas Simon nabbed Tinker’s neoprene model for himself in a duo of colourways.
Nobody discussed the pairing with Stussy’s US team due to its intended London store-only presence, eventually selling out through word-of-mouth alone.
By blowing Swoosh minds, Stussy gained access to a certain Dunk SB struggling to gain its market foothold.
Black and white mono, mesh-based pairs launched worldwide from 2014; THIS marked the point of no return as Tinker’s Huarache gathered a second wind, going forth with immeasurable force and inadvertently coasting that infamous runner’s high until fully customisable NikeID options were dropped at its feet mid-2015 .
Gary Warnett was one of the first to hint at its comeback in 2012, kickstarting a renaissance that size? later joined by draping the ‘Light-er’ version in MOWABB’s COA; beginning to line stomachs of starved collectors.
Now for a little something along the lines of Footpatrol’s origin story. Calling St Anne’s Court, Soho its first home in 2002, FP was a product of Nike approaching both Michael Kopelman and Simon Porter to open a premium sneaker store off the back of Stussy’s ‘00 SMU success.
Just over a decade later, Footpatrol launched their OWN Huarache singing to the tune of a mere 500 ‘Concrete’ units. Their team took on 1993’s LIGHT silhouette which unlike its heavier, original form saw a solo ‘Ultramarine’ colourway spanning small and larger sizes at time of release. With a heavy heart it didn’t mimic the height of popularity Footpatrol managed to harness, despite sharing an intricately sculpted tri-hole caging system and streamlined suede upper panelling.
Tales of origin encompassing Tinker’s Huarache and its tagline are now common knowledge – however, here’s a recap for those somewhat unfamiliar.
Tales change throughout time but facts remain the same; in this case, we have the late Sandy Bodecker to thank for sculpting Nike SB into the force it is today, as well as scribbling ‘Sneaker of the [Greek] Gods’ in response to Hatfield’s preliminary Huarache design. Inspired, he drew on the repeatedly remodelled ‘harrachi’ mexican sandal when naming – a form of footwear that could fulfil any purpose whilst consistently fitting with modern trends.
Unfortunately, North America’s infamous sandal was merely a namesake as ‘Huarache’ became its production tag, and technical inspiration grew from an elaborate water-skiing bootie epiphany. He was impressed by the neoprene’s ability to stretch and mould its form dependent on each wearer’s dimensions, proceeding to bury the concept beneath a combination of structural exo- skeleton and lycra across early sketches. His idea to stretch above tarsals opposed to lateral metatarsal spread worked at a tangent from 1986’s elasticated Sock Racer forefoot – one of Bruce Kilgore’s creations.
Although Tinker introduced ‘flex-sole ridges’ to the Huarache’s tooling and left Avar to conclude the Flight’s outsole at a later date, coming years saw an uncontrollable spawning of hybrids forming beneath the model’s polymerised chloroprene umbrella – utilising details from both models in a way not dissimilar to the duo of designers’ own tandem efforts.
Andre Agassi is often overlooked for his contributions to the sneaker’s success, with an eye-catching signature Air Tech Challenge II in tow. Two of Hatfield’s silhouettes were united to initiate a concoction of ‘89 performance and ‘91’s lesson in technological finesse – birthing the Air Tech Challenge Huarache, allowing the sneaker to contend in a way it was not famed for. Of course, Agassi claimed his first Grand Slam at Wimbledon with this visible-air-bootie on court.
Nike‘s Huarache FREE 2012 QS capsule was composed of three ingredients – two cut-out basketball silhouettes in original colourways and a single, low-slung pavement beater clad in 1991’s ‘Emerald/Resin’ autumnal palette. FREE technology met retail shelves for the first time mid-2004, three years after Stanford University’s running team was seen cooling-down barefoot in line with a theory encouraging improved foot health; from this point, footwear designers tried to incorporate literally slicing soles into their practise.
2019’s Autumnal season was the lucky recipient of ‘Back to the Future-esque’ FitAdapt technology – forming a bridge over what was a previously untapped market incorporating smartphone applications, 1991’s heartbeat and a lot of fun. Everything else aside, wearers (or users in this case) could adjust ‘lace’ tightness with ease and skim a multitude of LED midsole colour options through an app-reliant sneaker feature.
So, each of these steps contributed towards 2021’s retro of 1991’s storymaker; a sneaker with enough history to pack a small novel and more iterations than your favourite games console. Its ‘dynamic-fit’ technology has, and will continue to push boundaries across industries far outside of lines deemed to be its comfort-zone. Tinker’s designs revolutionised our shelves, transforming all collections with early career prowess.
Back in 2006, Edison Chen + Kevin Poon and their Hong Kong-based streetwear label, CLOT, teamed up with Nike for the first time, creating one of the most unique iterations of the Air Max 1 ever.
Now 15 years later, CLOT and the Swoosh are bringing the “Kiss of Death” Air Max 1 back to celebrate its 15th anniversary.
Since the release of the Air Max 1, CLOT has come to be one the most influential names in the industry, releasing unique renditions of their silk-laden Air Force 1s and a number of notable pairings with the Jordan Brand. Throughout all of CLOT’s work with Nike and Jordan, there is a fundamental connection to Chinese culture, whether it be an homage to the terracotta army, luxe silk materials, or something as simple as foot reflexology.
Unless you’re a clot-eyed aficionado you might have missed some of the subtle differences…
At first glance, the most obvious difference between the 2006 and the 2021 version is the updated colour on the heel.
Inspired by the practice of Chinese foot massage, the 2006 Air Max 1’s insoles feature a diagram of a human foot surrounded by characters and arrows pointed toward certain pressure points. Now in 2021, that motif has been taken to another level by way of a list of focal points throughout the body that extend beyond just the lower body.
Like most clear shoes designed with plastic paneling, the original 2006 version of this Air Max 1 was not exactly the most breathable. Much like ESPO’s Air Force 2 collab, the shoe’s window would fog up when worn without socks, an issue that has been remedied by toe-updated box perforations.
For the 2021 version, CLOT opted to keep the initialism as the shoe’s main nickname as opposed to “Kiss of Death” in an effort to remain sensitive toward the current circumstances around the globe.
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The past couple of years have seen New Balance build on their portfolio of successful collaborations and one of those that stands out has to be Casablanca.
For early 2021, the duo reunite for another unique take on the New Balance archive. Focusing on more modern day silhouettes, Casablanca look at one of their favoured models, the 327. This is one that has received the Casablanca treatment a couple of times now and is one they continue to experiment with.
The main surprise from this latest collaboration is the introduction of a brand new lifestyle silhouette. Featuring similar design queues to the 327, the 237 is a much softer approach. The sharp angles have been replaced with much more softer curves bringing a welcome contrast to the two models.
Both are dressed in a super clean colour palette of white, greens and soft pinks with the eye-catching Casablanca pattern featuring across the toe box and heel.
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The Dunk has often been used as a platform to represent meaningful courses to get people thinking and talking, you only need to look to the recent Nike Dunk Low ‘Community Garden’ and the Dunk Low SB ‘Crater’ to see this.
Both of those iterations used a host of materials that have been reimagined and reused to create one of the sneaker heads favourite silhouettes.
Now for 2021, Nike return with these ideas for another brand new take on the Low silhouette, the ‘City Market’. Featuring a bold, bright design, the upper has been constructed using eye catching visuals to celebrate durable materials and their role in Nike’s innovative heritage. Graphics nod to the brand’s Blue Ribbon Sports roots, as well as industrial rice and coffee bags that are frequently upcycled from urban markets for a wide range of uses.
Within this bold design, there also lays small unique details like on the tongue where a small, zipped compartment nods to reusable grocery storage with an accompanying grocery bag that pays its respects with a simple commendation: “Thank You For Caring!”
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