Author: Bradley Martinez
For our most recent endeavour with Finnish brand Karhu, we took a deep dive into their archives in search of hidden treasures…
We explored the vast array of nature that surrounds us here in the UK, to elevate our campaign. Taking a trip to the Isle of Skye our mission was to bring a strong visual experience that highlights the product and the heritage model our collaboration is inspired by.
Known for its varied landscape, the Isle of Skye is located on the west coast of Scotland and is a site of magnificent beauty. Pairing Skye’s aesthetics, with the collaborative over-garments creates a stylistic viewpoint on how to wear the apparel and the settings that they can be utilised within – helping us shape the heritable story the footwear shares with Karhu.
Whether it’s through camping or general exploring, this visual guide looks to create a holistic insight into the things we find right under our noses, whilst at the same time, exploring the lesser known expansive back catalog of Karhu.
Footpatrol & KARHU join forces on their third collaborative project working on the KARHU Fusion 2.0 silhouette.
With a long lineage and variety of products, Footpatrol took a deep dive into the KARHU archives in search of hidden treasures… They stumbled across the 1980s KARHU Snow boot, dubbed the ‘Snowstar’. The Snowstar boot was KARHU’s answer to warm running shoes for fitness enthusiasts for winter use, compiled of durable nylon material with split leather reinforcements, quick lacing system and a snow lock concealed within its velcro fastened shroud.
Taking inspiration from the Snowstar silhouette, Footpatrol have created a modernised, city-equivalent runner using the Fusion 2.0 model as the template, making the model a more durable, easy to wear offering equipped for today’s current trends.
Adding a mix of water repellent nylon material, smooth nubuck, rubberised panels and OG branding, this pair is Footpatrol’s vision of a hard-wearing city runner that keeps its inspiration firmly imprinted into the snow, as did its predecessor, the Snowstar boot.
Our main source of inspiration for the tracksuit design was military inspired with an outdoor hiking theme. Rather than a traditional nylon shell tracksuit, on this occasion, we wanted to produce a multi-purpose garment. For this part of our collaboration, we enlisted the design expertise of SSSU brand founder Sasu Kauppi once more, to help bring our ideation into wearable garments. A few back-and-forth emails and a couple conference calls later, the result came in form of a two-piece offering – an over pant & half-zip anorak style jacket that could be worn over the wearer’s garments.
The tracksuit construction consists of a durable Cotton Ripstop material with a water-resistant coating added to assist in keeping the wearer dry during harsh weather. The anorak jacket features a half-zip detail for easy pull over entry, with double needle top stitching is applied referencing military garments. Side pockets with a snap button closure are also added, with elasticated cuffs on the wrist and waist band (with drawcord details added to each side). A custom logo lock-up borrowing design elements from all three-brand logos sits beneath the anorak zipper. A final design detail we were imminent on including was a way to easily store the jacket. Our solution for this was to add a packable pocket to the back of the anorak complete with shoulder strap so the jacket can be packed into itself in the shape of a crossbody style bag.
Continuing with the military inspiration, the over pant features the same double needle top stitching details, drawcord function on the waistband and ankle cuff so wearer can choose between straight or tapered ankle cuffs. Pleats have been added below & above the knee to add articulation to the garment. We included a double pocket construction to the side pockets. The entry of the pocket with the snap button & zipper closure is for the wearer to have access to their pockets on any pants worn underneath the over pant. The second pocket acts more of a traditional style pocket on the over pant. Finally, we added one more patch pocket with flap and snap button closure to the backside of the pant. This pocket features the tri-brand lock-up logo.
Find the Footpatrol x Karhu Fusion 2.0 ‘Snowstar’ and tracksuit (sold as top and bottoms) will be launching in-store and online on 30.09.23 (Available online from 08:00AM BST), priced between £135 – £165.
New to Footpatrol, the latest offering from Merrell has just landed online!
Built on the foundations of the outdoors, Merrell have blown up on the lifestyle scene over the last few years with many thanks to the current outdoor trends that have seen the trail aesthetic hit the streets. Much like that of Salomon, Arcteryx and Oakley though, their focuses haven’t been swayed by these trends have continue to focus on delivering products with a purpose.
For their latest winter collection, continue to see the modern approach to their footwear offering that we’ve come to know. From the Agility Peak 5 Zero to the Hydro Moc, you know a Merrell Silhouette when you see one. This time however and with the upcoming winter conditions, we see a number of these silhouettes benefit from a strong GORE-TEX presence adding another piece of tech to make sure you’re well prepared.
Take a closer look at the collection below and why not check out the latest from Merrell online at Footpatrol here!
One of the biggest fashion trends over recent years has been the resurgence of the retro runner. Shimmering silvers, heavy gauge meshes and swooping lines have became a main stain feature for a number of brands and for Saucony, that offering comes in the name of the ProGrid OMNI 9.
With a return of two OG colour ways earlier this year, the American based sportswear brand now get into the winter spirit with this retro runner. Gone are the usual flecks of silver and instead, a stealth offering of ‘Triple Black’ is the go to recipe which now takes this classic 2010 silhouette and puts it firmly within the ‘gorpcore’ aesthetic.
Exclusively available at Footpatrol, you can shop the Saucony ProGrid OMNI 9 ‘Triple Black’ in-store and online here!
Last week, a few of the team had the opportunity to head down to Skepta’s Mains Spring ’24 runway show. You might be wondering why a London based sneaker store was in attendance however, if you look closely enough, you’ll soon get a sneak peak of something upcoming that was part of the show!
After four years, Mains came back with a bang with new chief designer Mikey Pearce and head graphic designer Johnson Orchid at the helm to help Skepta push the brand into a new direction focused around staple pieces.
Heavily focussed on a sportswear aesthetic, the show was filled with big logos, meshes and shimmering retro inspired tracksuits that all came together to make a cohesive collection but this wasn’t the only story on show. Cuban collared button ups, denim dungarees and motorbike leather two pieces hinted towards Hip Hops past and this was made clearer with a Tupac branded knits.
Away from the clothes was fashion weeks usual hotspot for the biggest in show business. From Stormzy to Headie One, Louis Theroux to Maisie Williams, JME walking the show all the way to fashion royalty, Naomi Campbell.
Take a closer look at the evenings events below and as we mentioned, take a close look at an upcoming project which we’ll be sharing more of over the coming months!
Remember the early days of Instagram; where we made obscene edits with overly saturated filters. A time when we could only post pictures and where we as consumers became engrossed by people laying out their ‘outfit of the day’ on the floor like it was the hottest topic on the news. Well for those nostalgic Footpatrol fans we have tried to do just that with our latest Communi-T release.
Having worked with Bravado and many other like minded brands. South Korean based illustrator / artist, Cityboy brings a nice twist to the existing outfit breakdowns previously seen on social media and community groups.
Utilising Cityboys signature style, we have collaborated on this exclusive release to bring you our latest Communi-T project. Dressed in the artist graphics seen on his socials, you aren’t going to want to miss this!
Now available HERE!
Footpatrol: Before we get into your work, let’s start off with a brief introduction. Please let us know who you are and what you do?
City Boy: Hello, I’m Kim Young-han, an illustrator from Seoul. I majored in visual design and illustrated as a hobby. I started drawing whilst looking at a snapshot from a fashion magazine. Then, I thought, “How about drawing my favourite daily look and sharing it?” Since then, I have been working as a style guide illustrator.
Footpatrol: How would you describe your signature style?
City Boy: I would say an illustrated style guide – for instance, a woman dressed in a crew neck sweat, t-shirt and jeans eating ice cream on a hot day. Or a man in a suit and glasses combing his hair whilst watching a movie. If you create a scene that anyone can relate to, people can be more immersed in your work, and naturally, their eyes go to the brands and items featured.
There is limited information given on the clothing. For example, cool linen and stiff corduroy fabrics can be difficult to paint. I use various brushes to show the textures that can show the materials. To show waterproof clothing I add raindrops on the clothing surface.
Footpatrol: You’ve also implemented some animation into your work too. Did this develop naturally over time or was this something you intended to add?
City Boy: When we see something moving, we give it more attention. Static expressions have visual limitations. Dynamic expressions catch the eye. I naturally started working on animation. It is also suitable for using Instagram Reels.
Footpatrol: Were there any artist inspiration or references growing up that pushed you into this style of illustration?
City Boy: When I majored in college, I drew illustrations while reading fashion magazines. The one I referenced the most at that time was Popeye (Japanese fashion magazine). I would draw while looking at the daily life and look of a city boy directed by magazine Popeye. I was fascinated by the indescribable atmosphere it created. Those works would have been at the root of my current illustration. My other reference is to go out and look at my daily life carefully. I like to work outside the house.
Footpatrol: One of the things that catches the eye of viewers, is your visual breakdown of each item of clothing & the brand featured in the characters outfit. Can you tell us how this idea came to life?
City Boy: There are many works in magazines that describe each outfit of a character. I must explain the costume that they are wearing in my work. Sharing my favourite styles with everyone.
However, I borrowed the power of the branding. I thought the visual appeal of a brand logo was more attractive than writing. It creates a stronger more visual appeal when matched with my illustrations.
Footpatrol: Can you walk us through the concept behind your Communi-T design?
City Boy: I wanted to bring inclusivity into this Communi-T project by featuring a male and female model wearing previous Footpatrol collaboration archive pieces. To bring out the atmosphere of the illustration, I also added fixtures into the designs – one of them was a vending machine – It creates a setting for the consumer to relate to.
Footpatrol: How did you find yourself conceptualising the idea for this project?
City Boy: There are so many vending machines in Japan. A few months ago, I was walking on the streets of Kyoto and saw a vending machine lying on the streets. It was lying alone, like an island. I was fascinated by its charm and took pictures. When I was painting an illustration of chilling atmosphere, I included this vending machine.
Footpatrol: What’s next for you after this project, anything exciting you can share with us?
City Boy: Immediately after this project, I have another t-shirt with a different brand!
Footpatrol: Thanks again for your time. It’s been a pleasure working together on our latest Communi-T project! Before we let you go, is there anything you would like to say to sign off the interview?
City Boy: It was fun working with Footpatrol. When you work on illustrations for a brand, it gives you insight into their history and culture. I was so grateful for Footpatrol to allow me the freedom to do my work in my way.
Thank you for supporting my work! Many people look at my illustrations and refer to my style. I will always look to try and draw different variations.
My aim is to create content that can be enjoyed in various forms that can be seen, felt, and touched.
To celebrate the launch of the J Balvin x Air Jordan III ‘Medellin Sunset’, we’re utilising this launch to give back to the community.
We’ve teamed up with Brixton Soup Kitchen for a special activation that requires your help. To access the in-store draw, those who would like to enter will need to donate a tinned food good to a member of the Footpatrol London team. The team will then provide you with the in-store draw form to fill out to enter the draw. Once ended, these will all be donated to Brixton Soup Kitchen to give back to the community.
T&Cs below.
Donate canned food item for the chance to enter the J Balvin x Air Jordan III ‘Medellin Sunset’ In-store Draw
By taking part in this raffle, you accept and agree to these terms and conditions. If you do not agree with any of these terms and conditions, then you should not take part in the raffle. It is your responsibility to ensure that you review the terms and conditions before entering the raffle. We, JD Sports Fashion plc (t/a Footpatrol), recommend that you print and store or save a copy of these terms and conditions for future reference during the raffle. Footpatrol is the promoter of this raffle, which is run in conjunction with Brixton Soup Kitchen, Charity Number: 1159976.
- What can you win?
Each person who donates a minimum of one (1) item of tinned food, will gain access to enter the in-store draw for the J Balvin x Air Jordan III ‘Medellin Sunset’ (the “Prize”).
This draw is taking place in Footpatrol’s London store only. The address for the store is Footpatrol, 80 Berwick St, London W1F 8TU (the “Participating Store”).
The Prize is subject to availability (size, styles and colours). The Prize may not be exchanged for a cash value, nor is it transferable. The Prize is subject to winner confirmation (i.e. Footpatrol has been able to contact winners and has been able to confirm eligibility). Footpatrol has the right to change, alter or withdraw the raffle or Prize at any time due to any change in any applicable law or any events outside the control of Footpatrol. Footpatrol shall not be responsible for any delay, cancellation or rescheduling of the Prize. If any part of the Prize is not claimed (for whatever reason), Footpatrol is under no obligation to supply an alternative prize.
This is an instore raffle and the winners have to collect their Prize in-store at 80 Berwick St, London W1F 8TU on or before 19:00 on Sunday 24 September 2023.
2. What is excluded from the prize?
It is the winners’ responsibility to organise and pay for anything excluded from the Prize, including transport to and from the Participating Store to collect the Prize.
3. Who can enter?
Entrants must be aged 18 years or over. Entrants will need to have an email address, Instagram account, and follow the ‘How to enter’ section below.
Footpatrol reserves the right to ask the winner to provide proof of age. Employees (and their immediate family) of the JD Sports group (http://www.jdplc.com/our-group/sports-fashion.aspx), or anyone else professionally connected with this raffle are not eligible to enter the raffle. Footpatrol reserves the right (at its sole discretion) to decide if the eligibility criteria are met. If the eligibility criteria are not met, the entry will be invalid.
4. How to enter
Entrants can enter the draw by:
- Bringing at least one (1) can of tinned food (which must be in-date and consumable) to the Participating Store (Footpatrol London) between 10am BST Wednesday 20 September 2023 to 3pm BST Friday 22 September 2023; and
- Completing the in-store draw form provided by a Footpatrol member of staff. Entrants will need to provide the following details to enter the raffle:
- Full name;
- Email address;
- Shoe size; and
- Instagram handle.
Once the form has been completed successfully and you have handed over at least one (1) can of tinned food, your participation to the draw will be complete. Please note only in-date canned food goods will be accepted.
All donations for this raffle will go to Brixton Soup Kitchen, who we have partnered with to celebrate this launch.
Participation is limited to one entry per person. If more than one such entry is received, only the first entry will be accepted. No responsibility is taken for entries that are lost, delayed, misdirected or incomplete or cannot be delivered or entered for any technical or other reason.
5. Closing times
The raffle will open on Wednesday 20 September 2023 at 10:00am (UK time) and will close on Friday 22 September 2023 at 15:00pm (UK time). Donations after this period will still be accepted and passed on to Brixton Soup Kitchen however, you will not be eligible to participate in the draw.
6. How are winners selected?
Footpatrol will select the winner from the correct guesses randomly using a random name generator. The decision of Footpatrol is final and binding on all entrants. No correspondence will be entered into regarding the selection of the winners (other than with the winners themselves). The winners will be notified via email that they have won and will be required to bring valid ID with them when they collect their Prize from the Participating Store. Valid ID is required so that Footpatrol can verify the winner’s entry. The winner will have two (2) days to purchase their Prize from the Participating Store. In the event that the winner does not purchase and collect their Prize from the Participating Store within 2 two) days (which, for the avoidance of doubt shall be no later than Sunday 24 September 2023 at 19:00pm (UK time)), they will be considered to have waived their right to the Prize.
7. Winners Responsibilities
It is the winners’ responsibility to: (i) donate at least one (1) can of tinned food; (ii) organise and pay costs for anything excluded from the Prize, including travel to and from a Participating Store; (iii) complete all stages of the How to enter section above and present evidence of such completion to a member of staff in a Participating Store; (iv) provide accurate contact details; (v) provide valid proof of age, which is required to enter the raffle; (vi) adhere to local laws in the UK (vii) comply with any rules, instructions, requirements, terms and conditions or regulations of the event organiser. Footpatrol will not be liable to the winners or any other persons where they fail to comply with such responsibilities and any such failure may result in forfeiture of the Prize.
8. Personal Information
For full details on how Footpatrol uses your information, view our Privacy Policy here
9. Publicity
By taking part in the raffle, entrants may be invited to participate in publicity at Footpatrol’s request if they are a winner of the raffle. Entrants agree that Footpatrol (or any third party nominated by Footpatrol) may in its sole discretion use their comments relating to the Prize and their experience for future promotional, marketing and publicity purposes in any media worldwide without notice and without any fee being paid (including for the avoidance of doubt when responding to any third party). Any use of images or other personal information that could identify entrants will be subject to the entrants’ consent.
Footpatrol reserves the right to withdraw the Prize (or any part of it) if a winner breaches any of the terms in these terms and conditions or if they are found to have acted in a dishonest or fraudulent manner.
10. Which law applies to this raffle
This raffle is governed by the law of England and Wales and the participants to the raffle submit to the exclusive jurisdiction of the English courts.
11. The promoter
The Promoter of this raffle is JD Sports Fashion Plc t/a Footpatrol, Edinburgh House, Hollinsbrook Way, Pilsworth, Bury, Lancashire, BL9 8RR. If you wish to contact JD Sports in relation to the raffle, please use the following address: Donate canned food item for the chance to enter the J Balvin x Air Jordan III ‘Medellin Sunset’ In-store Draw, JD Sports Fashion plc t/a Footpatrol, Marketing Department, Hollinsbrook Way, Pilsworth, Bury, Lancashire, BL9 8RR.
For the launch of the New Nike Air Footscape Woven, we worked together with Satara Achille AKA RUG CITY on a 1 of 1 bespoke rug that draws influence from the Footscape elements. We caught up with Satara to see where RUG CITY started and to hear what inspires her work.
Footpatrol: Hey Satara, Hope you’re well, and thank you for taking the time to answer a few questions! Can you please start with a little about who you are, and what you do?
Satara Achille: Hey! Thanks for having me. I’m Satara – but I also create under the name Rug City. I’m a multidisciplinary artist / designer in London. I make rugs and paint but I also have a background in digital design and UX.
FP: Where do your inspirations come from? And what ignited the spark to start rug making?
SA: I started in the first 2020 lockdown after going through some personal tribulations. So this is really the basis of why I do what I do, and where I draw my inspiration from. It started as a hobby and was all self-taught, with the name initially being a bit of a joke. It was Rug City Bitch from Rack City but I ended up dropping the Bitch and Rug City kinda stuck. At the time, I really wanted to get away from screens, and back to a craft that felt more hands on. My background is in graphics / design and interaction, so a lot of what I do day to day is very digital and screen-based. Tufting felt like the perfect antithesis to that.
FP: Can you tell us about the tufting process as opposed to other rug making techniques?
SA: When I first started making rugs, they were hand knotted and tiny. A ‘rug’ , say, 20x20cm took me about a month to make. Tufting is a bit of a level up from hand knotting. You have a tufting gun, which is some serious machinery. You can make bigger pieces in half the amount of time and you’re not limited to, what I like to call, a ‘pixel mesh’ canvas. You can pretty much draw anything you like with a tufting gun, as well as play with carving and shaping your rugs. My process generally starts from sketching, most of the time on screen. I can also write code so this becomes part of my practice in the design process. Some of my warped designs will go through code, to get a somewhat serendipitous output. Then I’ll project onto the canvas and tuft away. This then gets shaved, cut, glued and then backed. There’s way more to the tufting process than the tufting itself.
FP: There’s an emphasis on type and smiley faces in your works, is there any particular reasoning behind this?
SA: Most of my designs pair tongue-in cheek slogans with contradictory visuals, which comes from having a bit of a rough time with my mental health. My work outwardly says “it’s ok” but with warped and distorted visuals it questions if it’s really ok? Rug City is a reminder that if you repeat something enough, it can become your reality. I love playing with words and visually representing them.
In terms of the smileys, I love 90s rave flyers and how rave culture took the smiley and made it its own. It gave the smiley a whole new meaning and became a totem for running away, having fun and forgetting all your problems. It’s also always used in times of societal turmoil, so felt fitting especially when it all started in the midst of lockdown.
FP: The Footscape was often known for its elaborate patterns and material choices, if you had an opportunity, how, and with materials would you make your own pair?
SA: I’d love to see my rug city smiley pattern on one in chenille, it’s got a fuzzy texture that’s the closest thing to a tufted rug on a small scale.
FP: and something we always like to ask, if YOU were a Nike shoe, what one would you be?
RC: By day a Cortez and by night a TN
FP: For anyone looking to start rug making, what’s the basics you need? From materials to kit?
SA: There’s a fair amount of kit you’ll need to get going with. The basics are a tufting gun and monks cloth, which acts as your canvas and a tufting frame. I think you can get some ready to go frames online but most of these are pretty small so it’s best to custom build your own. And then of course, yarn.
FP: Thank you for taking the time to chat to us, are there any shoutouts or words of wisdom you want to share for anyone looking into picking up rug making?
SA: Lean into the process. Experiment, and Google and YouTube as much as you can. Each rug will get better and better.
Puma knew exactly what was needed to get fans warmed up ahead of the Notting hill Carnival. Alongside Wray & Nephew providing drinks, Bokit’La serving up some classic carnival must eats, and a host of star DJ’s, the scene was set at west London’s Unit 1.
The shoe of the hour, Puma’s Velophasis could be seen sported on foot across the venue, coming in a variety of low key and vibrant colour ways, it would certainly be a great choice for carnival goers. Sporting a large footprint and supportive panels with an array of accents across the silhouette it offers a pallet for every individual.
Keyrah got the party started, getting the growing crowd in the carnival spirit with some classic rhythms.
Remi Burgz took to the mic alongside Selecta Suave to elevate the vibes further with a host of bashment and bassline selections. Going back-to-back, they made sure everyone knew they were at the waviest pre carnival party. With the London weather being kept at bay, the party was as much alive outside the venue as it was inside.
Izzy Bossy brought some absolute bangers to the decks with her high energy mixes and blends. The dance floor at this point was certainly on fire with everyone putting in their two step. The folks at Jewels + Drillers had lines out the door for a chance to get carnival ready withs some custom tooth gems and nail art.
Next up on stage was Willow Kayne and General Levy, both giving it the most, duetting on stage and raising the roof with their individual flare and stage presence. It was most definitely a moment every raver present will remember and they both seamlessly flowed back and forth.
Rachel Anson finished off what was left of the night, and the crowds energy with some high octane tempos to see everyone well into the weekend.
Footscape fans are freaking out right now as Nike prepares to resurrect its Nike Air Footscape Woven, which makes its return to retailers at the end of this month. So far, the American footwear giant has confirmed two reissues: a ‘Black’ and ‘Cow Print’ – both of which come complete with the original signature asymmetrical lacing system along the upper and a chunky midsole infused with Air tech for extra comfort and bounce. There are also rumours of collaborations this year, including Sacai’s Magmascape and Bephie’s Beauty Supply x Union LA x Air Jordan 1, which are heightening anticipation surrounding its return.
But of course, the hype hasn’t come without the hate. As any seasoned sneakerhead will tell you, the Air Footscape has a chequered history in sneaker lore. A unique and eye-catching model, the Footscape has been divisive from the start. Designed by Tory Orzeck (also responsible for the Air Moc, and developing Nike Foamposite technology) and developed by Nike’s Advanced Project Engineering Group, the 1996 oddball asked people to ‘Trust your feet, not your eyes.’
True to its strapline, the Footscape didn’t prioritise face value beauty, instead refocusing innovations to improve comfort for the wearer. In an experimental move, Orzeck proposed creating a ‘Footform’ shoe built correctly around the anatomical shape of the foot. While the ergonomic upper and asymmetric lacing system gave way to its perfect ‘form-fitting’ structure, Orzeck’s off-centre orthopaedic lacing system raised eyebrows in the sneaker community. Orzeck told Sneaker Freaker that ‘the Footscape was almost killed as being too risky’ due to its then-zany lacing and link to orthopaedic footwear.
Today, the iconic system has become the standard for football boot design, alongside plenty of lifestyle models, but almost 30 years ago it was a radical concept for the average sneaker enthusiast to get their head around. This is perhaps why the Footscape, in all its retro releases, new variations and wild colourways has continued to divide opinion, especially in Europe and America, where fans either “love it or hate it.”
In Japan, however, the cultural status of the Footscape is vastly different. Though many attribute the Footscape’s success to the last fitting the wide Japanese foot shape, Manuskript editor Masayuki Ozawa counters this saying its popularity actually stems from the curiosity surrounding the sneakers advanced technology. “The ergonomic concept of the design and its side shoelace system which relieved pressure on the instep was a truly innovative in terms of footwear technology,” says the Tokyo-based sneaker expert.
Ozawa, who has published titles such as “Tokyo Sneaker History” (Rittorsha) and “The 1995 Nike Air Max Shoes” (Chuokoron-Shinsha) says the Footscape arrived at the dawn of high-tech sneakers dropping in Japan at the time. “Although we were gradually getting used to seeing more eccentric designs such as the Reebok Pump Fury and Air Max 95, Japanese fashion in the 90s was still not aggressive and conservative.” In fact, he says the initial drop of Footscape colours weren’t even that popular when they first released in 1996. “If you checked magazines and stores regularly, they were never a shoe you could not afford to buy, partly because the number of sneaker lovers was small compared to now.”
It wasn’t until the 2nd and 3rd generation of colours arrived that local sneaker heads starting paying attention. The initial lukewarm reception quickly turned into a frenzy as sneakerheads began to dig back into the archives and swooping up the OG pairs they originally slept on – a trend common to all high-tech sneakers released in Japan at the time, according to Ozawa.
The Footscape wasn’t the only hit among Japanese sneakerheads in the late ‘90s. Linus Nutland, founder of London-based Nike specialist reseller @nikeserver, says it was among a handful of models that, in the past, had a cult following in Tokyo’s booming sneaker scene. “Three that come to mind are the Air Woven, the ACG Pocket Knife and the ACG Okwahn,” reveals Nutland. “All three have striking appearances, are incredibly practical and released in striking colourways. The Footscape hits all of these points and then some!”
Nutland cites the craftsmanship behind models like Air Footscape Woven, the 00s’s successor to the OG 96 release, as the main appeal to the Japanese sneakerheads. “It’s a silhouette that has an artisanal feel to it with the woven strip on the upper, which makes this model even more desirable to the Japanese market,” he says, stating how the sneaker likely stood out in Tokyo’s eclectic streetwear scene. “Sneakerheads naturally want to stand out, yet it must be harder to stand out in a vastly populated city like Tokyo, unless you have a more left-field taste. So this is no doubt one of the reasons why these models do so well.”
Its this thirst for innovation, combined with an inherent respect for tradition that makes Japan’s sneaker scene is so interesting, according to @Yoblessed. “The idea of looking forward while appreciating the past,” says the Footscape fanatic (formerly known as krazeefox), whose personal collection focuses purely on original Air Footscapes. His comments support Ozawa’s statements, sumerising that its “Japan’s deep appreciation for left of centre designs and their openness to technical aspects” as to why the Footscape became phenomenon in Japanese sneaker culture.
Among the early adopters of the Footscape was Japanese streetwear legend, Hiroshi Fujiwara. The influential stylist-designer heavily endorsed the Footscape during its formative years, confirming just how vital the sneaker was and establishing a spiritual home of its own in Japan. Ozawa’s recalls the moment, around 1996-97, when The Godfather of streetwear wore the OG blue model, which generated hype in the streets of Uruhara. “At that time, Hiroshi Fujiwara had the influence to instantly sell out a store with just one photo of him wearing a pair,” says Ozawa. He remembers seeing the impact first hand when sneakerheads began switching out “women’s purple colours and men’s green/yellow or black/red” Footscape’s to same OG pair Hiroshi wore. “The introduction of blue by the god of the streets made everyone believe that it was precious.”
Fujiwara not only promoted Footscapes in local style magazines like BOON, but he also helped implement the sneaker within Nike’s “CO.JP” or “Concept Japan” line in the late ‘90s. According to a Jeff Staple interview with Hypebeast, Fujiwara along with Atmos founder Hommyo Hidefumi, helped tap local creatives and retail outposts for special makeups of classic models. Speaking with Marcus Tayui, the man in charge of Nike Japan’s “Energy” marketing, Staple asked “How do you know what’s gonna be the special shoe? He said that he’d often touch base with a guy to determine what’s hot and what’s not. “That guy was Hiroshi Fujiwara. This was pre HTM, pre fragment design x Nike, pre-everything.”
Just as Nike did with the Dunk, AF1 and Air Max, the Footscape was primed with special makeups and shop exclusives with influential Tokyo sneaker stores to integrate the model into Tokyo’s rich sneaker landscape. The limited quantities, released at local concept stores, were quickly snapped up by the city’s relentless collectors. But similarly to how CO.JP’s origins are shrouded in mystery, the specifics of Footscape’s exclusives are somewhat muddled. They weren’t marketed by Nike, instead using natural product marketing to get the word out to the local scene. Much of this information is reserved for the archives of Japanese-style magazines and knowledge among diehard collectors.
Nutland has been using his Nikeserver platform to uncover the untold stories behind Nike’s obscure relics like the Footscape. They regularly feature oddball Japan-only exclusives like a 2001 pair of Footscapes featuring a wavy-print mesh and textured orange suede toe box. Other gems in their archive include a 1/30 pair of 2006 Nike x Sophnet Air Footscape Woven FCRB. “The “F.C.R.B.” Nike Air Woven Footscape released in just 30 pairs for Nike’s ‘Joga Bonito’ event in Tokyo in 2006,” explains the founders of Nike Server. They go on to reveal that the shoe created by Sophnet founder, Hirofumi Kiyonaga, mimics the eight iterations of the Nike Air Woven Footscape World Cup pack also released in 2006. “These are unfathomably rare and sought after. Can’t quite believe we’ve even got a pair in stock,” they say.
When it comes to Japan exclusives, Ozawa notes a pair of leather Footscapes (609060-101) from 2001 as his personal favourite. “I don’t like my feet flashy to look too flashy, so the white base and luxurious leather made it easy an easy pairing with my style.” Yoblessed counts hard-to-find exclusives like the AD 21 suede/flywire, faded cloud editions, and the premium materials of the NSW Supreme as some of his favourites. He believes that these models within the CO.JP line were the genesis of the Quickstrike releases, Tier Zero marketing, shock drops, and Hiroshi Fujiwara-adjacent footwear that modern sneaker lovers are accustomed with today.
Fujiwara was the first Japanese figure to be invited by Nike to make a mark on the ever evolving Footscape reinventions. In 2005, he introduced the Footscape Woven Chukka via Nike’s HTM initiative. Designed with Mark Parker and legendary sneaker designer Tinker Hatfield, the trio of mid-cut boots took a construction method from 2000’s innovative Air Woven (already a popular standalone in Japan) and applied it to the same midsole unit from the original Footscape style. A worldwide release followed in 2006, along with Fujiwara’s own Air Footscape Woven collaboration under his Fragment Design brand, which updated the new lifestyle iteration with a black and white polka dot pattern in inverted colourways.
Fujiwara reimagined the Footscape again in 2009, this time aiming for the OG 96 design with a four-pack featuring block colour mesh uppers and the token grey suede toe. Fragment’s logo was subtly added onto the heel pull tab to not disrupt the original details. The final Fragment Footscape collaboration in 2010, saw Fujiwara introduce the Sportswear Air Footscape Motion a two-pack promoting Nike’s new Flywire-infused upper.
It is Fujiwara’s ability to adopt, reinterpret and ultimately perfect the Footscape with the subtle spins that helped generate feverish demand for the Footscape and pave the way for future collaborations with Japanese designers like Atmos (2012), Nike Air Footscape x Babekubcity x Medicom (2005) and Comme Des Garcon also released their blacked-out iteration in 2019. This January, Sacai designer and founder Chitose Abe offered a hybrid take on the ‘90s cult classic with its Magmascape, a silhouette that fuses the Footscape with the ACG Air Magma.
Beyond Japan, the germination of the seeds planted by CO.JP has influenced Nike to roll out the format to wider regions. In 2006, iconic London retailer The Hideout produced a limited edition pair of Footscapes. Nicknamed the ‘Hamster’ due to its pony hair upper, the shoe quickly attained grail status amongst collectors both overseas and in Japan. That same year, Edison Chen celebrated the opening of Shanghai speciality footwear store ACU with a CLOT Footscape Woven in a Jamaican-inspired colour scheme. It was one of the first times many Guanxi fans in China felt the allure of Footscape Woven outside of Japan.
It is not to say that the Footscape’s fanbase in the West has been entirely unresponsive. There have been plenty of hits over the years like the soccer-inspired Footscape Magista to the 2011 Nike Air Footscape Woven Freemotion aka the Gingham pack, and oddities like the Tony Spackman-designed NSW Supreme in Harris Tweed, which had cult success both in Japan and overseas among Footscape fiends. Nutfield points to The Tier Zero ‘Striped Pack’ in 2010 as another peak in the Footscape timeline, highlighting it as the last time a pair of Footscapes dropped with the og sole tooling. “A retro is well overdue!” he says, suggesting the Footscape Woven with its “artisanal/handmade feel” will do well in a market flooded with mass production.
It’s playful reinventions like these that are perhaps the biggest testament to Orzeck’s oddball invention and how his obscure vision is open to interpretation, time and time again. Today, collectors like Nikerserver and Yoblessed continue to shine a light on the eclectic history of the Footscape and prove how criminally underrated the sneaker is. You only have to look at #properfootscapes (coined by Yoblessed) to see how diverse Nike’s Footscape offering has been over its thirty-year history.
While we might not be getting the full-scale OG retro that many of us would wish for, it’s exciting that Nike is spotlighting one of its most dynamic sneakers again. For many, the influence of the Footscape might not always be felt — but it will always be appreciated by those who seek out something a little different in their sneaker choices, whether that’s in Japan or anywhere else in the world.
Words by Samutaro.
Modern design that’s built for urban exploration… That’s the way ASICS describes this latest offering and we couldn’t sum it up better ourselves.
With that said, we introduce to you the GEL-QUANTUM KINETIC. An exploration into their running heritage, this latest silhouette doesn’t forget to pay homage to the brands aesthetic identity. Over recent years, we’ve seen numerous collaborations like Kiko Kostadinov who have helped explore the archives and create their own take on the brands aesthetic and now, it’s time for the SPORTSTYLE team to have their turn and that’s where the story of the GEL-QUANTUM KINETIC begins.
Taking inspiration from classic runners like the GEL-NIMBUS and GEL-KINETIC, this advanced aesthetic brings those metallic panels and chunky meshes we’ve become use too and thrusts them into the future with technical components like the huge Scutoid GEL unit in the midsole taking visual dominance.
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