Author: Bradley Martinez
Earlier this month, we teamed up with adidas Originals to redefine what Originals meant. For this, we teamed up with Benji aka, Blunt Shank. After sharing his love of the Superstar silhouette across forums back in the day, this b Egan Benji on his path to where he is today. Now creating bespoke and customs, ourselves and adidas challenged Benji to create a one-of-one Superstar to B-Boy Olympian talent Sunni Brummitt.
A performer at the highest level, Sunni has travelled the globe sharing his talents. Having started at the age of 10, Sunni has set his sights on the main stage at next years Olympics.
Excitingly, we recently had the opportunity to hand this pair over to Sunni. After lacing up the Superstars, displaying his talents, Sunni set about sharing with us his what Originals meant to him.
Tendai hates early starts. He loathes them, even. However, on this damp Thursday morning, the artist, producer and self-professed east London ambassador zipped through to Cambridge Heath station to make his call time.
Making music that sits beyond the constraints of a genre, with an aesthetic that feels extremely natural, yet intricately considered, tendai seems a complex character: an artist unable to be placed. It’s no wonder, then, that he’s found himself signed to 0207 Def Jam just two years after his debut single ‘Not Around’ and boasts an executive producer credit on Stormzy’s album This is What I Mean. As we anticipate the completion of his three-part EP series and witness tendai achieve so much in a relatively short space of time, there’s no doubt his feet are still firmly on the ground.
The way he speaks is evidence of his modesty. “I’m just a real person…a sensitive being at heart, where there’s no separation between self and art”, says Tendai. He constantly speaks about being “super specific” in every aspect of his being; in his music, his style – even with the food he orders. He’s also very particular about what he wears with his New Balance 991v2. And he is deeply deliberate about how he considers the impact of his music. “There’s certain records I’ve released that have a timestamp in them that predates the time they were made, just because of the emotion they evoke. I love the idea that I’m unintentionally reintroducing my generation, and generations to come, to a certain kind of British music. It’s funny because the word ‘British’ is just so specific.”
As we drive towards Tower Bridge on the rare and unfortunate day that it’s stuck open for about an hour, we joke about how this is part of London’s charm: it will always delay your schedule but it’s still our proud and abiding home. We also talk about how growing up in London has undoubtedly shaped tendai’s sound. “My music feels really British. The music I’ve made that sits deepest within me always feels like London,” tendai says. He goes on to reel a list of artists he feels are and have been making music that feels quintessentially British, names spanning from The Streets to Elton John, and speaks how he feels he sits amongst that melting pot of sounds.
Our journey takes us into the famed Number One Cafe, which serves as an integral meeting point in British series Top Boy. We find ourselves discussing the spoken and unspoken traditions, a conversation that somehow comes from trying to describe what “good chips” smell like. “That’s the thing about London’s culture and tradition, it’s so many things, where I’m from [Newham], it’s embracing all the culturally rich facets we’re surrounded by, whether it’s food, the music, the architecture, I think it makes us [east Londoners] have such an eclectic taste,” says tendai. “I pull from the road signs, from grime culture, the blocks of flats, the artists that are from here.”
Delving deeper, he speaks about the importance of understanding east London’s lineage – those who have succeeded in creative pursuits before him. “It contextualises me, not just as a musician too. I don’t see myself as just a singer or just a producer. I’m a director, I see the music I make in scenes.” A homage not only to the musicians of the East End, he extends that beyond, reeling off another long list of names that includes the likes of Idris Elba to Alfred Hitchcock.
While also looking to what came before him, tendai likes to fantasise over fortuitous interactions that are yet to happen. “I get inspired by the emotional breadth that can come just from meeting someone, that’s the pool I usually draw from” he says. He often muses on relationships that have a romantic edge to them, and what they might become can be the trigger for a new idea that becomes a song.
Before even beginning to lay anything down, there’s a few tendai-specific traditions that are part of his music making process. Pulling out a beautifully crafted incense box and placing it on the table as he lays back on the sofa and listens to an old vinyl, he explains the importance of being surrounded by a particular energy, especially when in creative spaces: “I guess it’s a ritual. It’s always important to create a certain calm in my space, so I always have this with me,” tendai says. “I also go to the ends of the earth to ensure something feels right musically, I won’t touch the mic until I’ve got a verse, pre chorus and chorus.”
Speaking so much about east London and being part of a region that has not only birthed the likes of Kano and David Beckham, but is home for the fictional borough of Walford, where cult classic soap opera EastEnders has been running since 1985, I ask tendai what made him different from the rest? Perhaps a deep understanding of his Ugandan heritage, shared with him by his mother? All of this combined? Surprisingly, it’s not something tendai ever really considered: he is way more focused on how he unites with people.
“The beauty of this all is that it doesn’t make me different. I, like many others, am sharing the story of a black kid in the diaspora, and that doesn’t separate me. It contextualises me and brings me closer to say many people, their lives and their stories.”
Check out the New Balance 991v2 online at Footpatrol here!
Whether it’s within our respected countries or globally, every year our calendars are filled with national holidays. The majority of these are often holidays that aim to bring people together in cause of celebration. Now approaching the end of October, we come to some peoples favourite. We’re of course talking about Halloween. Globally known and celebrated in most countries around the world, this festivity is a day that tends to focus on the spookier side of life.
Much like the kids (and adults) who use it as a time to dress up in their favourite horror movie characters outfit and venture out on a ‘Trick or Treat’ mission, it’s also an opportunity for popular brands to tag along for the ride. This’ll often end up with them delving into their archives and being inspired by a character and dress their most iconic silhouettes in a similar sort of fashion.
So, to celebrate, we take a look back at some of our favourite Halloween inspired launches.
One of the most iconic of these Halloween inspired ‘launches’ is of course, the one that should’ve never seen the light of day and that is of course, Nike SB Dunk Low ‘Freddy Krueger’. What should’ve been the release to celebrate Halloween 2007, this Dunk Low took on a striped knitted appearance that resembled that of famed nightmare stalker, Freddy Kruger.
This of course was followed up with the lawyers from licence holders ‘New Line Cinema’ who weren’t too fond of its resemblance. To try and get it over the line, Nike reworked it with a slightly thinner stripe however, this still wasn’t up to scratch and was followed up with a cease and desist. Calling back all the stock from retailers, it’s only due to a store selling their stock early that pairs made their way into the hands of collectors and now, with this hefty story behind it’s become one of the most desired within the Dunks history. This didn’t stop Nike trying again though in 2020 when they opted to loosely reference ‘Freddy Krueger’ and his famous jumper, this time with the use of materials and instead of the Dunk Low, they went for the equally famous Air Max 95.
Carrying on with the Nike Dunk Low theme, Nike once again reverted back to this silhouette for Halloween 2021 with the ‘Mummy’. Taking on the appearance of a ‘Mummy’, the upper features a tear-away construction that helps take the silhouette on a journey of its own, slightly unwrapping itself to unveil details hidden within.
Delving into the history books when it comes to characters within the horror history books, back in 2018 Saucony teamed up with Super7 and Universal Monsters to recreate the Saucony Jazz OG in 4 extremely limited renditions. Based upon Dracula, Frankenstein, The Metaluna Mutant and The Wolf Man, this 80’s runner was exclusively sold at 2018’s Boodega event with only 12 pairs per style and only one per size. This means, if you happen to see one of these in person, you have something special.
Alongside a couple of releases in 2007, Reebok also decided to bring a Halloween theme to their line up with the Reebok Ventilator. A set of four launches which of course lent towards fan favourites Freddy and Jason, the stand out pair was the Ventilator that took inspiration from Child’s Play star ‘Chucky’ and his denim dungarees and striped T-shirt. The team also didn’t miss a trick by including a matching pair that took on the appearance of Chucky’s bride, Tiffany.
It’s not always a character that gets the focus of a collaboration. When NYC based store Extra Butter had the opportunity to collaborate with Italian brand Diadora back in 2016, the store focussed on that Italian connection and the nation’s unique thriller genre ‘Giallo’. Referencing the 1975 film Profondo Rosso by Dario Argento and with those Made in Italy touches, the team paid inspiration to the movie’s iconic poster.
When it comes to collaborations, teams can often opt towards the more scarier horror films however, back in 2012 Nike decided to go down a bit more of a PG route. That said, it still had all the spooky details needed for a well executed collaboration like the glow-in-the-dark outsole and upper graphic. This time, they teamed up with animation studio Laika and the duo opted for a Foamposite based on the CGI horror comedy ‘Paranorman’ to which the shoe was also named. Limited to just 800 pairs worldwide, the sneaker was only available via an online competition called ‘Weird Ones’. Now, thirteen years on, the Paranorman is one of the most sought after Foams to have released.
It’s not just Nike who wanted to pay homage to Freddy Krueger; however, this one saw the light of day. Back in 2021, Vans teamed up with Warner Bros for an official collaboration that paid inspiration to six iconic films. Friday The 13th, The Lost Boys, IT, The Exorcist, The Shining and of course, A Nightmare On Elm Street and for us, it’s this SK8 Hi that was the pick of the pack. With a weathered green and red canvas upper mimicking Freddy’s jumper, the upper is doused in bloody red markings to relive the nightmares within the film.
For Halloween 2006 and with their BAPE-STA silhouette, BAPE went down the route of outlandish colourways to provoke a freak finish that was all wrapped up in a patent leather construction. Reworking the BAPE logo for this trio, the became the Frankenstein BAPE-STA, Mummy BAPE-STA and the Dracula BAPE-STA.
Continuing the theme of a full patent leather upper, for 2006 Nike turned their efforts to getting the whole family involved. With a women’s Nike Legend and a GS Vandal, the pick of the bunch though was the one you see above, the men’s Air Force 1. Paying inspiration to Mary Shelley’s 1818 novel Frankenstein, the upper features details throughout that hark back to the famed character, most notably the red stitches that mimic those on his forehead or the glossy volt green appearance.
Head over to the post over on our Instagram and let us know which is your favourite!
Back in 2022, a couple members of Footpatrol had the opportunity to travel to the Netherlands with alongside ASICS and fellow ASICS TOMO accounts such as Naked, Slam Jam & more. Whilst there and placed into teams, we all had the opportunity to work come together and work on a bespoke makeup for the new GT-2160. The joint venture resulted in the creation of the ASICS GT-2160 TOMO “Kogarashi,” which is a Japanese concept that signifies where summer meets winter, and warm connects to the cold.
Building on that idea of people working together and inline with our frequent players franchise, we looked not only at seasonal changes but also how music traverses the globe but also the idea of connecting people no matter the climate. With that said, to celebrate we brought together three DJ’s from London (Alexander Nut), Paris (Jojo Krazzy) and Japan (vloQee) to work on three bespoke mixes and how music speaks to their respected regions.
The ASICS GT-2160 TOMO edition is now available to shop online at Footpatrol here!
Footpatrol: Hey, we hope you’re good? Huge thanks to the three of you for taking the time to talk to us. Could you tell us a bit about yourself and what it is you do?
Jojo: I’m Jojo SK, Producer/DJ from Paris, I started as a music producer and I blended this part of my skills with DJ’ing, now I run an event organisation called Sixtion, the sickest night in Paris.
Alex Nut: Hello Footpatrol, my name is Alex Nut, im a DJ, producer, label owner and radio host, born and bred in the infamous West Midlands, but have spent the last 20+ years living in East London, paying top dollar for fancy coffee and easily accessing a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. I’ve got a love for the more Soulful side of Underground Club music, from Hip Hop to House, Broken Beat to Boogie, Jungle to Jazz. My taste is pretty broad.
vloQee: I’m vloQee, an artist from Indonesia, I created character called “sebatsmen”, living in Tokyo for 6 years, where I pursue my academics and dreams while also DJing, modeling, and assisting Sabukaru online for events or content.
FP: Can you tell us about your origins in music, and your influences?
Jojo: I’m originally from Congo but I was born in France and grew up in the UK so I’m highly influenced by Afro-Caribbean sounds, and of course hip hop, the UK House scene.
Alex Nut: It goes as far back as i can remember, from my parents’ record collection, to Wolverhampton pirate radio, where i later ended up playing (big up Sky Line).. To the influences of early hip hop culture, graffiti, sound system culture, skating, dancing and digging for vinyl. Im old enough that vinyl was still the format of choice when i was a kid. Then i became a bit of a rave soldier, i’ve been out in clubs every week since i was 15, its just a part of who i am. When i moved to London i ended up getting a show on Rinse FM, which i did for 8 years before moving over to NTS. Plastic People was was my spiritual home, and was where i resided for a good number of years till it closed. That place was a huge influence on me and my musical journey.
vloQee: My mix is influenced by my surroundings and the music my friends create, with a strong emphasis on gabber, drum and bass, and trance, but on a daily basis, I primarily listen to jazz, hc-punk, and hip-hop.
FP: Can you tell us how your music links to the cities you reside in?
Jojo: My music is diversified, just like the city of Paris.
vloQee: My music is deeply connected to the Tokyo community, fueled by influential groups like Tokyovitamin, YAGI, and Sound Sports, who bring diverse musical styles and their unique energy to the city.
Footpatrol: Alex, how have you seen the uk music scene evolve over the years? and can you tell us about how you think sneaker culture shares similarities to musical culture?
Alex Nut: Well for better and for worse i’ve definitely seen it all grow from a grassroots, underground community of ‘heads’, to spreading far and wide, having a huge worldwide influence, to it all becoming a global business. But certainly in the early days of both the footwear and club scenes, it was very much a culture of digging. Things wern’t so easily obtainable, and it didn’t really involve having much money either,,, you didn’t have to go broke to buy kicks or records.. It was more who had the strongest passion, desire, style, and taste. In the early 90’s, much like digging for records, we would hear, word of mouth, about mom and pop sports stores with dead stock or rare gear in a neighboring town or city. There wasnt that many places to get cool kicks, it wasn’t really a mainstream phenomenon back then… much like the underground music scenes. The Jordan phenomenon definitely changed things a lot, but even then, in the UK it was still kinda limited to people with an interest in BasketBall or Hip Hop. Back then my interest was in finding Gazelle’s, Sambas, Puma States and high top Pony’s, which we would cut down and skate in. But later on the Air Max 95’s dropped and that changed everything, for a few years that was all anybody wanted.
FP: What is your favourite thing about music coming out of these cities?
Jojo: I think the rap scene because it’s people that had to learn the hard way on how to go from 0 to a 100 in this industry, with most of the time little budget.
Alex Nut: I can honestly say that some of my most favorite musical memories have been down at Plastic People, which for those who don’t know was an amazing small, basement club on Curtain Rd in East London. I would go to various different nights, on different days of the week. DBridge and Steve Spacek’s Blackpockets nights were really amazing. Co-Op was the night for Broken Beat with the likes of Dego, Seiji and IG Culture and i also got to see the early formation of Grime and Dubstep down there in the early 2000’s as a regular at FWD with very young and fresh faced DJ’s/MC’s like Skream, Skepta, Plastician, Wiley, D Double E,… luckily i eventually got to play down there myself. CDR would be on a Sunday, where producers could come and try their new, unreleased music on the incredible sound system. Which is where i met Floating Points. Theo Parrish had a monthly residency there also, which was always a really special night of music… i mean, for me, nothing has ever come close to what that club was, and what it did for the underground music scene. I feel blessed to have experienced it. But yeah there was loads of other wicked nights… i would regularly frequent Bar Rumba, Herbal, Fabric, The End etc. I never got to go to Metalheadz at Bluenote or see Soul II Soul at the Africa Centre.. Which i still have FOMO about.
vloQee: What makes Tokyo’s music scene fascinating for me is the constant influx of fresh releases across various genres, happening every week or maybe everyday.
Footpatrol: Alex, eglo Records, can you tell us a bit more about this and the origins?
Alex Nut: Same as above really, it all started as a result of crossing paths and making friends with people down at Plastic People. That’s where the label started. At this time i was on Rinse FM and working in music PR radio plugging, constantly on the look out for new music and meeting artists to bring to the radio show. And this is how i ended up crossing paths with Floating Points, Fatima and Funkienven aka Steven Julien. No one had put anything out yet, so the stars aligned and it all seemed to just make sense. Still to this day, no matter how far and wide we branch out, Plastic People still really informs the spirit of the label.
FP: Can you tell us any similarities between paris music scene and fashion scene?
Jojo: They go together, people like an artist for more than the music nowadays, they want to be able to relate to a state of mind, a lifestyle, a fashion sense, and of course the music first.
vloQee: What makes Tokyo’s music scene fascinating for me is the constant influx of fresh releases across various genres, happening every week or maybe everyday.
FP: If YOU were a sneaker, what would you be?
Jojo: Air Force 1
Alex Nut: Gotta go for an OG Addidas Gazelle, in green. They’re just solid, timeless kicks. No frills, but still steezy.
vloQee: Maybe Mars Yard, it’s rare but everyone knows about it
Footpatrol: Alex, you’ve played all over the world, How have you seen music that comes out of the UK connecting people?
Alex Nut: The UK is the one of best places in the world for creating club music, we’ve birthed Jungle, Broken Beat, UKG, Grime, and given our own fresh take on House and Techno. We’ve got that Sound System heritage, so the low end is important here. The scenes used to be a lot more tribal and separated but now i feel its a real mixed up melting pot. The club is a unifying force, and dance music is a positive form of creative expression, and a release for many people. It’s bridged communities and forged relationships all over the world. Created jobs and international travel. Its amazing.
FP: Do you have any shows coming up where people can come and see you? And where people can also listen to your mixes?
Jojo: Yeah Oct 20th Sixtion event in Paris, not to miss out on!
Alex Nut: We have our next Eglo Records party at Corsica Studios on 21st October with special guest Atjazz which we’re really looking forward to. I have a monthly show on NTS, and will soon be starting a new residency on Rinse FM again. If you’d liked to check out my mixes and shows head over to my Soundcloud page, I’ve got plenty of mixes up on Youtube also, dig in!
vloQee: Upcoming show this end of October and early November. You can listen some of my raw mix at mixcloud or soundcloud.
FP: Thank you for taking the time to chat to us! Are there any words of wisdom for people looking to start DJing? Or any shoutouts?
Jojo: S/O Sixtion!
Alex Nut: Yes i’d like to shout out Soul II Soul, The Wild Bunch, 4Hero, Marc Mac, Dego, Kaidi Tatham, Bugz In The Attic, Kool DJ Red Alert, Mark Pritchard, Goldie, Fabio & Grooverider, DJ Flight, Theo Parrish, Masters At Work, Jah Shaka, Channel One, Q-Tip, Benji B, J Rocc… the list is endless…. And my words of wisdom to anyone just starting out in DJ’ing… is to check out all of those names i mentioned above.
vloQee: Dan Wieden once said “just do it” and shoutout to Mr.Bianco who gives me the chances to do my first big set in Tokyo.
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Now available to shop in-store at Footpatrol London and online HERE.
Sneaker collaborations aren’t anything new however, over the last few years they’ve become a constant within weekly launches. From Nike with their arsenal of Travis Scott, Sacai or A Ma Maniere and more or even New Balance with the likes of Salehe Bembury, JJJJound or Joe FreshGoods, it was collaborations like those which, over recent years have put sneaker collecting into a new light.
Now of course, there are multiple ways of collaborating. Whether it’s a store bringing the ideas forward to a brand or the brand itself scoping the world to find the next industry leading talent to bring their eye and name to something, get it right and it could be something that could go down in history. Another way that sometimes gets overlooked is when a brand, or for this latest story, a band becomes affiliated with a brand so much so that it becomes uniform and forms part of their image. Sometimes it’s easy to go down the route of Hip-Hop, Rap or R&B but there are occasions that see them delve into the world of metal and that’s where we’re at today.
We’re of course talking about the latest Korn x adidas collection. An affiliation that goes back to the early 90’s, the band would frequently wear the Three Stripe tracksuits and this quickly passed down to their audience and became somewhat of a statement uniform for their followers. They even had a song called A.D.I.D.A.S though for anyone who’s heard it will notice its playful take on ‘All Day I Dream About Sports’. But for ‘23, after decades, the duo finally made that relationship official with a collection harking back to the band’s past. Though this is the latest venture into this genre, it definitely won’t be the last.
With generations of people growing up on this genre of music, it’s easy to forget how much of a cultural impact some of these bands have had on the music world and just how relevant they are even to the point of people like Ice Cube and Public Enemy sampling bands such as Slayer and Black Sabbath.
So to celebrate, we thought we’d go back in time and take a look at some of our favourites. From samples, to limited releases through to general releases, the breadth of these collaborations seems to be endless.
A heavyweight within the Nu-Metal scene, back in 2003 Nike decided to celebrate the genre-bending, Sacramento based band Deftones with their very own Nike Dunk High. Limited to only 40 pairs worldwide, these are still one of the rarest Dunks and seem in safe hands with the likes of JD Beltran having them within his collection. In keeping with the leafy green city centre, the band kept things simple with a predominately green leather upper whilst their logo takes dominance on the heel.
One that may have slipped under the radar for many and one that still hasn’t had much information shared regarding it but to celebrate their 2017 ‘No Filter’ tour, rock legends The Rolling Stones teamed up with French football team Paris Saint Germain for a collaboration that included 55 pairs of the Air Max 1 you see above. With a range of apparel within the collaboration as well, it was the AM1 that gained most attention. With The Rolling Stones logo featuring on the lateral side of the shoe, the PSG emblem featured on the medial.
Celebrating its 30th anniversary, Metallica enlisted the help of Vans to celebrate their debut album ‘Kill ’em all’. Like Iron Maidens 2012 collaboration, the Sk8 Hi and Slip On were the silhouettes of choice and continuing in a similar theme, the album artwork was a focus of the collaboration.
One that never technically saw the light of day apart from a few sample pairs for the bands friends and family, the Iron Maiden x Nike Dunk High ‘Beasts from the East’ shows how these coming togethers can go down in folklore. Taking away the limelight, the Swoosh becomes a translucent feature upon the iconic artwork that brought a heavy attitude to match their debut L.P. A must have for many, the pair was not too long ago spotted on the feet of frequent Nike collaborator Travis Scott.
With over 40 albums since forming back in 1975, Iron Maiden once again found themselves collaborating on a footwear collaboration, this time though, with Vans. Receiving a general release back in 2012, the band opted to celebrate one of their first albums ‘The Number of the Beast’ that released back in ’82. Using a Sk8-Hi and a Slip On as the silhouettes of choice, the band took their recognisable album cover and used this as the highlight of the collection.
A constant when it comes to this genre of collaborations, Vans never skip a beat in similar vain to their next collaborator, Motorhead. Having formed in 1975, the band went on to cement theirselves within music history with their blend of heavy metal and punk rock. Continuing the theme of using album art covers as inspiration, the team looked towards their first studio album ‘Motorhead’. This means a clean all black upper is met with the bands logo on the heel whilst the iconic Snaggletooth, aka the War-Pig featured on the insole.
Revolutionary at the time, the Air Presto paved the way for many future sneakers and quickly became a firm fan favourite. However, a pair that may have gone under the radar for many with only 15 pairs known in existence is that pair above. Celebrating a worldwide tour back in 2001, Nike provided Eric Clapton with his very own Air Presto. Although a relatively subtle iteration that saw a predominately grey upper, underneath the heel shows the EC World Tour graphic that makes these pairs so special. Thankfully and after much persistence, it’s thanks to people like Prestology for shining the light on such things!
One of the more recent editions and during the recent craze of sneaker collaborations, Nike stayed true to past efforts and this time celebrated 50 years of Grateful Dead. For this, the SB team paid homage with three neon colour ways that make us think back to those psychedelic rock days and the genre in which the band will go down in history for being one of the biggest within.
After the brands explorative collaboration with artist KAWS, for FW23 the team are back to continuing their collaborative efforts. This time, they team up with Japanese brand UNDERCOVER.
This latest winter ready offering is a reimagination of technical clothing, this time looking through a fashion lens. Traditional pieces from within TNF’s arsenal have been given a fresh update with UNDERCOVER building on their roots within the world of streetwear to create a seamless relationship between street and performance.
Take a closer look at the collection below and shop this latest collection online at Footpatrol here!
Through advanced algorithms, AI analyses vast amounts of data, including consumer preferences, social media trends, and historical fashion data. This data-driven approach enables designers to create collections that resonate with the public, resulting in more sustainable and customer-centric fashion. Additionally, AI-driven virtual try-on solutions and personalised styling recommendations enhance the shopping experience, reducing returns and waste. As a result, AI is not only transforming how fashion is created and marketed but also contributing to a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry that caters to individual tastes and needs. Here we are, to talk to NEW FACET on how he has this world in the palm of his hand and what he plans to do with it.
Also, make sure to look out for the Saucony OMNI 9 ProGrid ‘Crystal Cave’ launching online on Friday 20th October (Available online from 08:00AM BST).
Footpatrol: Hi Luca, We hope you’re well, and thank you for letting us come and learn first hand about the world of NEW.FACET, can you tell us a bit more about yourself and what you do?
NF: Hey, thanks for having me! I’m Luca, a multidisciplinary designer based in Germany. I primarily work in the fields of Graphic Design, Digital Experiences, and 3D design. Last year, I started the research project NEW FACET, exploring the intersection of CGI, Digital Art, and AI with Fashion.
FP: Can you tell us about your adventure into the world of ai and fashion, what was the inspiration for this?
NF: As a creative I always like exploring new emerging technologies, workflows, and mediums. My first touchpoints with AI were two years ago with some of the rudimentary diffusion tools and GAN models that existed back then. Last year, there was significant development in the field of diffusion-based ai systems, and I saw the potential for how these systems could be better controlled compared to previous ones. I tried various workflows, such as combining them with 3D or sketches, for example.
Taking the fashion route seemed quite natural during this process. I’ve always been interested in fashion, but it seemed somewhat challenging to approach. However, with the workflows involving AI and 3D, it has become much more approachable to create your own world and visualize your ideas without requiring extensive resources.
FP: Can you explain the advantages/disadvantages if any, of using AI in the fashion industry, both for designers and consumers
NF: For designers, it can be a great addition in various workflow methods, such as visualising concept sketches, generatively iterating on designs, rapid prototyping, or gathering inspirations. For consumers, it all comes down to a more personalized experience, such as virtual try-ons, customized products tailored to consumers’ measurements, or personalized styling recommendations.
FP: How do you believe AI-generated fashion addresses the issue of sustainability in an increasingly eco-conscious world?
NF: Digital tools for designing clothes, like Clo3D, assist in visualizing clothing concepts one-to-one for the real world, reducing misalignment in the production of clothes and minimizing the number of samples and prototypes that need to be created. AI will help make this direct visualization process more accessible to other designers. In addition to image diffusion algorithms that help in visualizing concepts, there are AI algorithms specifically tailored to clothing production, such as those that generate the optimal cutting pattern from a mesh of the designed garment to minimize fabric waste.
While it will still take some time, I also believe AI will enable more and more people to create their own products in the future. We’ve seen the first developments in fields like footwear design and 3D printing over the past few years. In the future, AI will assist in creating customized and personalized products for the end consumer, coupled with technologies like 3D printing or 3D weaving techniques this could pave the way for new, localized, and eco-friendlier production methods. Projects like unspun from Vega are looking really promising for example.
FP: How have you noticed consumers perceive AI-generated fashion items, and do they have any reservations about wearing them?
NF: Like with any new technology, there are two sides to how developments in the field of AI are perceived, either positively or negatively. It’s important to acknowledge that this new technology can be used for both good and bad purposes. For outsiders, it’s often challenging to understand the various ways it can be used. However, I believe many people see AI as an additional tool for creativity and recognize that it doesn’t replace human creativity but rather enhances it. These tools are still operated by creative individuals.
FP: Are there any ethical concerns regarding AI in fashion, such as issues related to intellectual property?
NF: You can create highly transformative work with these systems, if you use them right. But there are also people who train systems to copy a certain style of an artist or use prompts in systems which are artist included and specifically try to imitate them. This is definitely a downside – with technological progress it’s also becoming increasingly easier to copy other people’s art. But I think every tool can be used in a good way or in an unethical way. It’s important to direct the blame in the right place.
FP: Can you tell us about stable diffusion? and some of the other tools you use?
Luca: Stable Diffusion is an open-source image diffusion model that can be further extended and developed on your own. It’s the primary system I use because it offers more possibilities compared to other systems. While with other AI tools, you can only use them to visualize text prompts, stable diffusion allows you to train your own models for various needs or utilize it as a tool for visualizing sketches or 3D objects.
FP: Can you tell us a bit more about the process of generating the Saucony Crystal Cave, were there any problems involved in the creation?
NF: To bring the Saucony Crystal Cave into the digital realm, we initially created a photogrammetry scan of the shoe. So we basically took around 300 pictures of all possible angles of the shoe to create a 3D mesh that we could utilize later on. Following this, we designed a custom outfit using a 3D CAD tool specifically tailored for clothing design. A 3D persona now wears both the shoe and the custom outfit, allowing us to stage various scenes within a 3d program called Cinema 4D. To achieve a higher level of realism in rendering these scenes compared to traditional rendering methods, we integrated AI into the process. So, for the most part, it involves a blend of 3D sceneries with AI rendering methods and backgrounds.
FP: Can you tell us about some of the projects you’ve worked on with brands? and also are there any you would still love to work with in the future?
NF: It was an incredible honor earlier this year to be part of the ‘Selected Memories and Visions of Functionality’ series by GORE-TEX, alongside ‘Advanced Research,’ to have our work exhibited during Paris Fashion Week. For the showroom, we created multiple concept designs inspired by GORE-TEX Past and envisioned how Products for the future could look like. For the history part, we designed several looks and shoe models inspired by a photo from a 1980s GORE-TEX catalog. For the second part, we developed several looks and shoe models for a more distant future.
Currently me and my good friend Tomek, work alongside other designers and brands, collaborating with them in the fields of Branding, 3D, and AI to develop real products. Outside of Fashion we’re working with Architectures, Photographers etc. to create exciting projects and to experiment on new workflows.
There are numerous people and brands I’d love to connect and collaborate with in the future. If I had to choose one, it would be Golwin’s 0.
FP: One thing we must ask, as we always do, if YOU were a sneaker, what would you be?
NF: One of my favourite sneakers is the Nike React Undercover. I think I wouldn’t mind being one.
FP: For anyone that’s curious about diving into the world of AI whether it’s fashion or any other creative output, are there any words of wisdom, things you would encourage or avoid in someone on their journey that you wish you had been told when you started?
NF: I recommend trying out different tools and integrating them into the workflows and methods you already personally use. I believe this is the best way to discover things that you find useful and that you can expand upon. For more controlled outputs, I can suggest exploring stable diffusion. There are many resources available online on how to get started.
FP: Thank you Luca, its been a pleasure!
NF: Thank you for having me. It was a great pleasure to meet you all and explore together on the visuals.
Covering the globe with our Footpatrol Discussions platform, our latest sees us on Canadian waters with artist/painter Kathy Ager. Capturing our attention with her unique blend of Baroque-style artworks with modern streetwear touches, Kathy’s artwork enters a new world of darkness that captures the imagination.
Now with her artwork grabbing the attention of NOCTA, Polo Ralph Lauren and Nike, we had the chance to catch up with Kathy to understand more about this unique style and where these ideas originated from.
Imagery by @Samfidlin
Footpatrol: Kathy! It’s great to finally have the chance to catch up and talk about your work. We’ve long been wanting to feature so it’s good to finally have that chance. First things first though, how’s things?
Kathy Ager: Things are ok! I just returned to Vancouver after spending the summer in Amsterdam, so I’m still getting things sorted and up and running in my studio. It’s nice to be back though!
FP: I’m sure a lot of our audience would’ve come across your platform given the content you predominantly feature however, for those who may be new to your work, could you give us a bit of background into you and your artwork?
KA: Well, simply put, I’m an oil painter from Vancouver, Canada. I make still lifes that combine historically Baroque-style themes with modern elements. Sorry if that sounds too simple or dry! It’s just hard to sum up what you do when it’s only in hindsight that you can try to explain it and put it into a box. I originally went to school for graphic design and illustration and worked in ad agencies and design studios, doing mostly branding and packaging design. I moved from Vancouver to Barcelona to Amsterdam about 15 years ago, mainly because I loved European design (and I wanted an adventure!). I’m sure I was influenced by the art I saw around me, but it wasn’t until about 8 or 9 years ago that I picked up painting in my spare time. After a couple years of painting, I was picked up by Thinkspace, a gallery in Los Angeles, and from there I began painting full time. That was about 6 years ago! I returned to Vancouver to work on a couple solo shows for Thinkspace, and now I’m mainly working on my own pieces as well as collaborations with larger brands like Nike and Real Skateboards.
FP: You recently just returned back to your studio in Vancouver after being in Amsterdam for the group show, LAX / AMS’ THINKSPACE X STRAAT, how did it go?
KA: It was a great experience. I used to live in Amsterdam for almost a decade, but only started painting in the last couple years I was there and never felt like I made any inroads into the art scene. This group show happened to coincide with my plans to return to the city for the first time since I left back in 2018. I was so glad I made it to the opening as I got to reconnect with some old friends that are doing some big things in town and to make some new friends and connections in the Amsterdam art scene. It was also great to see the STRAAT Museum because it was still under construction when I left the city years ago. It’s a really impressive space.
FP: So, let’s get back to your work… ‘Golden Age’ is a term I see people use to describe your work quite often. It’s something we think has multiple meanings whilst referencing the inspiration to your style but we’d love to know what it means to you.
KA: My painting style is heavily influenced by the still life paintings of the Dutch Golden Age which spanned much of the 17th century. It was a time of crazy wealth in the Netherlands, mainly achieve through the exploitation of other places and people, and there was a boom in artists capturing this wealth and excess in still lifes. But within these paintings were also moral and religious messages, as well as an ever looming vibe of imminent decay and impermanence. Similarly, my paintings might appear materially focussed on the surface, but I’m using objects and references that are both personal to me and familiar to the viewer to convey my own feelings and experiences of love, loss and the pain of modern life as an underlying message.
FP: That contrast between modern day objects and vintage still life aesthetic is what really captured our eyes, especially given the footwear choices. Does that feature object decide the rest of the piece or is the rest of the still life the main decision point?
KA: My paintings are usually about my own personal experiences and relationships. Sometimes I’ll reference sneakers that are owned by a specific person, and sometimes there’s something about that specific style or colour way that has an association to something I’m feeling. It’s funny — when you look at still lifes painted back in the 1600s, you see what looks like a lot of antiques and old things, but at the time they were painted, these objects were modern. I think it’s the same with sneakers. They’ve become quite valuable and symbolic to many people, and I’m curious what people will think of that in 400 years. I’m just capturing what’s symbolic to me and my/our times.
FP: You’ve worked with some big names within the industry including NOCTA, Nike and Polo Ralph Lauren. How do you find working on these larger projects, is there still a sense of freedom to bring the pieces to life?
KA: I love working on these larger, commercial projects. It lets me bring in my graphic design background and create things for someone else instead of just for myself. Usually a client comes to me with a specific idea in mind. They usually want to feature one of their more timeless items – Polo shirts for Ralph Lauren, white AF1s for Nike, for example — so that the piece has longevity. I prefer having quite a lot of direction from clients when working on these commissions so that I don’t have to mine my own emotional world like I would for my own works. I don’t always want to be rooting around in my basement. It’s taxing!
FP: Would you have any words of wisdom for any of our audience out there who are hoping to pursue a career within the world of art? Any tips that have helped you perfect your craft?
KA: I’m really glad I went to design school and have that as a solid background. It’s given me the freedom to choose when I paint as opposed to the pressure of NEEDING to paint. I would say don’t feel like you need to jump right into being an artist or going to art school. I was scared of the “starving artist” cliche so I didn’t pursue fine art right out of high school, and to be honest, I didn’t have anything I wanted to say until later in life anyway. Also, my advice is that you have to put in the time and effort. There’s no short cut. It’s not glamours being an artist. It’s a lot of time spent alone, just chipping away at your craft, even if you don’t feel like it. I’m not always happy to be painting, but I’m always happy I painted.
FP: In regards to your medium, it seems like oil and canvas is the main feature. Has there been any other mediums you’d love to explore for future pieces to further enhance that contrast of styles?
KA: I’m starting to think about creating some 3D pieces. I’ve always loved building things and thinking about things in 3D but haven’t applied that to my art yet. I’ve been talking to a friend in Portland about a collaboration, possibly to make some decorative tableware or ashtrays or something along those lines. While I was in Europe over the summer, I visited Maria Imaginario, a sweet artist friend in Lisbon, who is making some amazing ceramic pieces and I was inspired! So we’ll see what comes of it all.
FP: As we mentioned previously, there is a heavy focus on footwear. Anywhere from Travis Scotts Air Jordan IV to the Patta Air Jordan VII, to GOLF’s Converse to Nikes Uptempo. So, with us being Footpatrol, we must ask, Is this a showing of love towards sneakers that you own personally or do you just admire from a far.
KA: Like I mentioned earlier, usually the sneakers are related to a specific person, or else there’s something about that particular style that has the right vibe I’m going for. I think one of the biggest things that draws me to sneakers is their graphic colour blocking and logo design. Maybe because of my graphic design background? I also love sports team graphics and jerseys for those same reasons, but I’ve never been a team sports player myself!
FP: If yes, what makes a good sneaker to you?
KA: I don’t actually have a sneaker collection myself. I’m so picky, I usually have a hard time even finding one pair I’m into. Lately I’ve loved what New Balance has been doing with skate shoes, as well as some Nike SBs. I like a bit of a preppy look and for the last while I’ve been really attached to my Nike SB Nyjah Free 2s.
FP: I think that’s it from us… Huge thanks for taking the time to sit with us and talk. This last question is an opportunity to share any wise words with our audience or simply let us know what you’ve got coming up that we need to keep an eye out for.
KA: I’m just getting started coming up with a new series of painting ideas. The past couple of years have been really tough for some personal reason, which means they’ve given me a lot of material to work with, LOL! If I’m brave enough to go there.
Available to play for a limited time only in our London store, the latest in-app game Footpatrol Campus Dash! Explore the Nike virtual campus featuring subtle Easter eggs paying homage to Nikes Headquarters in Beaverton, avoiding hazards and collecting Nike boxes to win prizes.
Explore the Nike HQ , collecting shoe boxes, avoiding hazards and earn points along the way whilst being surrounded by some of the iconic feature of the Nike Headquarters . Don’t forget to look out for special FP tokens for a chance to win Foorpatrol merch both in-store and online!
Campus Dash is our latest exclusive offering to our Launches App.
