Author: Bradley Martinez
It’s that time of the year again where we sit down with the team to discuss our ‘Shoes of the Year’.
As always, it leads to a lot of debate and not one person can agree on one shoe. We see this as the beauty of sneakers. Everyones different tastes and styles will mean it would be very rare for someone to have the same pick. A great declaration for individuality!
This year, the team kept things mixed. With a great mixture of inline and collaborative product. Subdued colour ways to outlandish cheetah prints, the team were very clearly varied! Some even turned their SOTY’s into a forever shelf shoe with the addition of getting their pair signed. That was of course the Action Bronson x New Balance 990v6.
Head over to our Instagram post to let us know what you chose as your shoe of the year!
Sneaker culture has long been the province of men. Attend any sneaker conference or weekly store drop and you’ll notice the crowd is almost completely composed of young men. And while there is a huge number of devoted female sneakerheads out there – a market that has been valued at 79 billion dollars and growing – major sportswear brands have continued to underserve this consumer group for years. Whereas men have long enjoyed a diverse product offering, their female counterparts have often been left with hand-me-down versions of men’s products made in smaller sizes and released in more feminine colours. But a growing number of womenswear brands, that specialise in the feminine and whimsical are suddenly dipping their toes into the sneaker culture and squashing the “shrink it and pink it” design philosophy that has plagued the industry for years.
Over the past year, names like Simone Rocha, Cecilie Bahnsen and Kiko Kostadinov’s womenswear creative directors, Laura and Deanna Fanning have envisioned a completely new vision for sneakers that tap into the mentality of the modern female sneakerhead. Rocha for example added her trademark touch of romantic elegance by embellishing a pair of cream-coloured lambskin ballet pumps with glass pearls. These coquettish designs, chimed with this year’s #balletcore wave which saw Ballerina footwear options like Mary Janes, flats and pumps become a go-to style for many women. The Fanning twins Hybrid Ballerina Flats and Pink Ribbon Hybrid trainers at Kiko are a great example of how the trend further plays out in sneaker culture. The Smooth-grain leather shoes with self-tie fastening ankle straps are fused with sneaker sole technology to create an unexpected mix of romance and performance. It’s no surprise the trainers are the proverbial hotcakes of the sneaker world.
While these independent labels have successfully cracked the code with their own branded sneakers, others are collaborating with established sneaker brands as a way to bring their dreamy designs to life. Cecilie Bahnsen’s alignment with ASICS has been a huge hit. Pushing the boundaries between intricate couture detailing and technical function, the Copenhagen-based designer fuses her feminine DNA with ASIC’s technical expertise. The debut SS23 collection included seven collaborative sneakers including the ASICS GEL-1130 and GEL-1090, each of which was covered with cut-out applique flowers that added a soft meadow-like feel to the 90s runners.
“I’ve always been drawn to the juxtaposition between something that is hyper-feminine with elements that are more technical and sportive,” Bahnsen told Elle of her design process. She reveals that it was the style of the girls in her atelier and community that inspired the capsule, specifically, ”how they style the collection for everyday wear, often pairing a big poufy dress with denim and trainers.” The designer adds: “It felt like a natural decision to collaborate with ASICS, finding common ground between our two distinct universes. I want our community to feel the same wearing our ASICS sneakers as they would wearing one of our voluminous dresses—simultaneously elevated and effortless.”
Her intuition proved right with the sneakers getting swept up by her loyal fans and ASICS inviting Bahnsen back for the second season. This time round she re-interpreted the ASICS’ GT-2160 trainer, one in pink and white and the other in blue and silver — with both featuring straps across the laces detailed with elegant floral patterning, as typical of the brand handwriting.
Salomon is another label that has been opening the doors to its archive to a growing roster of female designers. From Comme des Garcons platform PULSAR ADVANCED to Sandy Liang’s playful pink XT-6 Expanse, and PHILEO’s most recent XT-SP, which is adorned with a soft and tactile knitted upper, these creative collaborations completely reimagine Salomon’s products outside of the gorpcore realm that helped popularise it within streetwear some six years ago.
Speaking on this new era of hyper-femme sneakers, Hannah de Silva, co-founder of Gorp Girls says, “I love that I am able to bring my sporty side out but in a more delicate and feminine way.” Though she typically wears traditional hiking styles when out on hikes with her community in the city she likes to style something totally different. “This sneaker trend allows me to blend the two worlds in a way that fits my personal style,” she says going on to reveal that a pair of Simone Rocha’s is her favourite pair right now. “I love to wear my Simone Rochas with tights or dainty socks to show off the cute cross ribbon detail. But on days I want to be super comfy, a pair of baggy jeans also work!”
Aside from the popular #balletcore crossover, what makes these sneaker drops so successful is the fact that most of them are exclusive to women’s sizing, with the exception of Cecille Bahnsen’s whose ASICS collab included a full size runs up to men’s. Titi Finlay, who is a creative for Nike and has been collecting sneakers for years explained to Pop Sugar that sizing has been one of the main issues where the industry lacks in terms of inclusivity. “To give some context on sizing, the majority of the time, the hype sneakers only release in a UK6 and upwards, so people with smaller feet (mostly women) miss out on so many great releases. There is sometimes a grade-school (GS) version released alongside the adults’ drop, but these usually have cheaper materials or altered design features. It’s frustrating not to be recognised in that sense, and I’d love to see brands work on releasing sneakers in a full-size run for all the drops.”
There are of course some brands that have been loyally serving female sneaker fanatics with the type of feminine-focused styles that are taking over right now. Comme des Garçons longstanding collaboration with Nike is perhaps the best example of this, serving up obscure styles like the Premier Heeled Lace-Up Sneakers in AW21 as well as the Iced-Out Nike Shox Models for SS19 which featured delicate frayed accents alongside statement metal chains.
Martine Rose is another Swoosh luminary who has consciously kept inclusivity at the heart of her seasonal collaborations. Crossing fashion with sport, the London-based designer perfectly merged classic formalwear with the renowned look of Nike Shox to create one of the best unisex sneakers of the past few years. To further emphasise the focus on women in football, Rose rolled out the collab during the UEFA Women’s EURO tournament. It’s a game-winning formula that’s as disruptive as it is revolutionary, which is why you can find pairs reselling for as much as Thanks $600.
Given the hype around the movement and a growing appetite for gender fluid fashion among young consumers, its natural these footwear styles are attracting a broader audience. “We’re excited to see where these trends head not only women’s sneaker fashion but also how guys take to it too,” says Jake, Footpatrol who note the shifting attitudes in the sneaker world from a boys club to something more inclusive. “Female collaborators are being welcomed by some of the biggest sportswear names and it’s opening up the space for females to be expressive and inclusive to everyone who loves sneakers,” they say. They highlight the recent Sandy Liang and PHILEO Salomon collaborations which both bring a softer, often pinkier tone to what is normally a rugged outdoor offering. “But that said, it hasn’t stopped the guys being drawn to it whereas before, things may have been a bit more gender specific.”
Customisation is another element that is helping bolster the trend on social media. The Queen of sneaker upgrades Caterina Mongillo aka metagirl.studio has been going viral on Tiktok and IG with her eye-catching shoe designs which include styles like New Balance 1906R’s adorned with pearls, lace and ruffle embellishments. Her innovative approach, infusing femininity into sneakers, forges connections with an entirely new audience within the sneaker realm. sofiamcoelho who is one of the lucky few to secure a pair of the one-of-one designs, plays into the romantic feel of the sneakers by styling them with feminine pairings like lace skirts and ruffle accent socks.
Speaking with Knockturnal on how her femininity inspires her designs Mongillo says “I adore sneakers, but I couldn’t find any that exuded the level of femininity I was looking for, so I created them.” Having started out as marketing manager at adidas, she was all too familiar with issues of gender inclusivity in the footwear industry. “Throughout my career in corporate settings, there were people advising against making them ‘too girly’ and discouraging the idea of “shrink it and pink it,” as if there was shame in producing hyper-feminine shoes,” she says going on to detail femininity has historically struggled to gain validation in a predominantly male-dominated sneaker world. “Personally, femininity holds great significance for me, and I express it through my designs. If we aim for a more equitable society, there should be no shame in incorporating hyper-feminine elements into footwear.”
Though Mongillo has been tapped by big name brands like adidas and Vans, she says there are a lot of creative constraints when it comes to working with corporations. “It’s important to respect a brand’s provided strategy framework; however, when there are too many constraints and rules, they hinder the authenticity of the creative process,” she says. “The key difference lies in the final outcome. I might have a well-thought-out concept, but even minor alterations during execution can dilute the core essence of the concept. Given the success of her designs and growing demand for female-first sneakers, she hopes that corporations will level the playing field when it comes gender disparity and stop shaming female designers who want to incorporate hyper-feminine elements into footwear.
Last week saw the return of the ‘Lunar’ technology. An absentee from Nikes arsenal for a number of years now, the technology burst back on to the scene with the Lunar Roam ‘Alabaster’. A sleek, streamlined silhouette, the Lunar Roam proves to keep people happy with a number of hark backs to previous fan favourite Nikes. With the Lunar midsole in an eye-catching yellow, the upper is a tribute to the old Flywire technology. It’s definitely a refreshing way to end ’23.
To celebrate this, we took over the entire Royal Greenwich Observatory for a lunar exploration and invited you along for the journey. With food and drink on tap, we headed into the planetarium for an in-depth look into our solar system with one of their astronomers.
A huge thank you to everyone who joined us, take a closer look at the events below and make sure to take a closer look at the Nike Lunar Roam ‘Alabaster’ here.
Straight from the design boards within New Balance HQ, the New Balance WRPD Runner aims to blur the lines when it comes to retro running inspiration and modern design. Continuing their exploration within traditional craftsmanship, NB seamlessly blend this with the latest technology to make sure this newest silhouette for a conceptual design that has the legs to last.
With a sculptured aesthetic with a minimalist approach, we headed out to East London to meet Justas Silkauskas, founder of Autotelic Objects. Much like New Balance, Justas brings a modern day approach to a traditional craft. Much like the full length Fuelcell within the WRPD Runner, Justas uses these modern technologies to enhance the traditional craft of ceramics to create unique everyday objects. Everyday objects that when using creates special experiences to the holder.
From initial doodles on paper, to 3D printed variations to test and perfect designs, Justas only then takes to the method of Slip Casting. We catch up with him to better understand this process and how he’s developed these methods to suit his craft
Footpatrol: Hey Justas, thanks for letting us come down and visit the studio today. First and foremost, how’s your year been?
Justas Silkauskas: It’s been a dynamic and creative year for me, filled with exciting projects and collaborations. I’ve been pushing the boundaries of my craft and exploring new designs.
FP: For those of our audience who may not be aware, could you give us an insight into you and the world of ‘Autotelic Objects’?
JS: “Autotelic” is a term that embodies the essence of self-driven purpose and intrinsic motivation. In my creative journey, “autotelic” encapsulates my philosophy—a personal drive and intrinsic motivation that brings fulfillment and meaning to my craft. For me, it signifies a deep passion for creating art for the sheer joy of it, propelled by an internal desire to delve into innovative techniques and challenge the limits of traditional craftsmanship. The outcome is a collection of unique and meaningful objects that represent the essence of my creative exploration.
FP: What we found unique about you and your work was your processes. We feel like you’re blending modern technologies with an old traditional craft. From paper with hand drawn designs, 3D printing methods and then clay.
How do these processes benefit your work? Does it allow you to create more obscure objects?
JS: Combining these processes allows me to experiment with different materials and techniques, pushing the boundaries of what’s traditionally possible. The synergy of old and new methods enables me to create objects that are not only visually intriguing but also functionally unique. It opens up a realm of possibilities for creating truly distinctive and obscure pieces.
FP: It’s great to see people teaching and perfecting self-taught skills like you and slipcasting. Could you give us an insight into this method?
JS: Slipcasting is a technique I’ve honed through self-teaching. It involves pouring liquid clay into molds, allowing for the creation of intricate and detailed forms. The process allows me to reproduce designs with precision, giving each piece a consistent quality while maintaining the handcrafted essence.
FP: How has the transition been from self-taught to having products sold and available in some very notable stores? A bit surreal?
JS: The transition has been incredibly rewarding and, yes, a bit surreal. Seeing my creations on shelves in renowned stores is a testament to the dedication and passion I’ve poured into perfecting my craft. It motivates me to continue evolving and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.
FP: What’s some of the difficulties when it comes to this method? Does it come down to the mould itself, the slip or is it like most crafts they all need to be in sync to be perfect?
JS: Each step in slipcasting requires meticulous attention. The mold design, the consistency of the slip, and the casting process all play crucial roles. Achieving perfection requires a harmonious balance of these elements, and any deviation can pose challenges. It’s a delicate dance that demands precision.
FP: The thing with all of your designs is that they all seem to have a functional element as well as an aesthetically pleasing design. Is this a must for you when it comes to sitting down and thinking of the next concept or can looks sometimes take lead over function?
JS: Functionality and aesthetics go hand in hand for me. I believe that objects should not only be visually appealing but also serve a purpose. The challenge lies in finding the perfect equilibrium between form and function, creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also enrich the user’s experience.
FP: What’s the next design you’re aiming to come up with or shall we stay locked to your socials…? 👀
JS: I’m always exploring new concepts, and you can definitely stay tuned to my socials for exciting updates. There are some innovative designs in the pipeline that I can’t wait to share with the world.
FP: So we’re with you today to celebrate the launch of the New Balance WRPD RNR in the brown/black colourway. What drew me to you and this silhouette was the sculptural aspect of the midsole and the curves. It reminded me of your Pourer.
Is there anything else away from ceramics that you’d like to apply your design skills?
JS: Ceramics will always be at the core of my work, but I’m intrigued by the idea of exploring design in different realms. Whether it’s collaborating on unique designs or venturing into other materials, I’m open to expanding the horizons of Autotelic Objects.
FP: I think that’s it from us… A huge thank you once again for allowing us to come down and document you and your work. It’s been a real insight to see the combination of technologies and traditional handcrafted techniques come together.
JS: Thank you for visiting! It’s been a pleasure sharing my creative journey with you. I look forward to more exciting projects and collaborations in the future.
Footpatrol: We tend to leave this last question up to our interviewee to share anything they have coming up or to share some inspiration to our audience
JS: Keep an eye out for upcoming releases and collaborations. I draw inspiration from the world around me, and I encourage everyone to find beauty in the intersection of tradition and innovation. Stay curious and keep creating.
Last week, we had the pleasure of hosting our second disability history month event alongside, Open Book and Two Times Elliott. Dubbed, Inclusive Access 23.
Featuring a fantastic line up of panelists that consisted of, Carly Tait, Richard Whitehead MBE, Amy Conroy and Ashley Archer. Our conversation focused around the topic of Disability Within Sport, with the aim to discuss how we can be more inclusive, look after your wellbeing and help encourage the next generation to participate in any form of physical activity.
It was a privilege for everyone at Footpatrol to host this event for the second year in a row and we hope to keep the momentum going into 2024, and keep pushing our all inclusive community at the forefront of these conversations.
If you couldn’t make it, don’t worry! We got the recap right here for you below…
Renowned for its groundbreaking technology and a rich history rooted in the pursuit of excellence, Vibram has not only transformed the world of outdoor and athletic footwear but has also left an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
Vibram’s story begins in 1937 when Italian mountaineer Vitale Bramani faced a tragic climbing accident in the Italian Alps. Determined to prevent such tragedies in the future, Bramani set out to create a sole that could offer superior traction on various terrains. In 1938, he founded Vibram, a portmanteau of his own name and “bramare,” an Italian word meaning “to crave” or “to yearn.”
Bramani’s invention, the Vibram Carrarmato, revolutionised the industry by introducing a lug sole with durable rubber compounds. Over the years, Vibram continued to refine its designs, collaborating with outdoor enthusiasts, athletes, and footwear manufacturers to develop soles that delivered exceptional grip and durability.
At the heart of Vibram’s success lies its commitment to technological advancement. The company’s relentless pursuit of excellence has led to the development of high-performance rubber compounds and innovative sole designs. The Vibram FiveFingers, introduced in the early 2000s, marked a paradigm shift in minimalist footwear, providing a unique and natural feel while maintaining the protection and grip Vibram is renowned for.
Vibram’s Arctic Grip and Megagrip technologies have further solidified its reputation for unparalleled traction. Arctic Grip excels on icy surfaces, making it a game-changer for winter footwear, while Megagrip provides outstanding grip on wet and dry surfaces, catering to a wide range of outdoor activities.
Beyond its roots in outdoor and athletic footwear, Vibram has also had its fivefinger toes dipped in the fashion industry. The distinctive appearance of Vibram soles has become a design element in its own right, embraced by fashion designers seeking to infuse their creations with a touch of performance and functionality.
High-end fashion brands and avant-garde designers have collaborated with Vibram to create statement pieces that seamlessly merge style and performance. The juxtaposition of Vibram soles with luxury materials and cutting-edge designs has resulted in unique and eye-catching footwear that blurs the lines between function and fashion.
The streetwear scene, in particular, has embraced Vibram as a symbol of authenticity and performance. Sneaker collaborations featuring Vibram soles have become highly sought after, appealing to consumers who value both aesthetics and functionality in their footwear.
Vibram’s journey from the slopes of the Italian Alps to the forefront of the fashion world is a testament to its unwavering commitment to innovation and excellence. The brand’s rich history, coupled with its cutting-edge technology, has not only transformed the outdoor and athletic footwear landscape but has also permeated the fashion industry, influencing the design ethos of high-end brands and captivating the imagination of fashion-forward consumers.
Closing out ’23, we’re teaming up with ASICS for an end of year celebration to ask what ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’ means to you.
At the heart of Footpatrol is our diverse community. We continuously look to find avenues that give back and on this occasion we need your help!
Who was that person that went above and beyond to help you this year? Has someone stood out and done great things for your community? Let us know.
Head over to our recent Instagram post and make sure to tag them in the comments. They could be in with the chance of joining us for a private end of year dinner at Silo.
Speaking of Silo… Last week, we headed out to Hackney Wick to visit the Silo team. World renowned for their methods, they took us behind the scenes to get a greater understanding of what makes Silo so special. What makes them special we hear you ask? Imagine opening a restaurant and ‘Not having a bin’. Well this is something artist Joost Bakker wanted to explore with Silo’s chef and owner Douglas, creating the worlds first zero waste restaurant. Bringing you along for the journey, we wanted to promote a healthy mind and body and ask the question of sustainability and health.
Now back to the ASICS mantra of ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’. We’ve celebrated many conversational topics this year, from disability awareness to mental health and wanted to continue by exploring this idea with you, the community.
Footpatrol: Team Silo, thanks for hosting us down at the restaurant today to meet the team ahead of our community give back dinner with ASICS to celebrate ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’. Could you give our audience an introduction to Silo and what makes it such an innovative space within the food industry?
James, Silo: Thank you so much for coming to visit, we are really excited to be collaborating!
Well, Silo is a restaurant without a bin. This statement has become our guiding principle, forcing us to work backwards in eliminating waste from our food system. We create everything on the menu from ingredients in their whole form, cutting out over-processing and dood moles, whilst preserving the integrity of the ingredients we treasure. The restaurant is in constant evolution as a consequence.
Footpatrol: So as you’re aware, we’re down at Silo celebrating our community and those who have particularly helped others throughout the year. Inline with ASICS, we’re exploring the idea of ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’, a mantra they’ve had since their early beginnings and stay true to to this day.
Could you and the team give us your interpretations to the idea of ‘Sound Mind, Sound Body’ and how you look to create this within your everyday life?
James Pritchard, Restaurant Manager: The interconnection between mind and body is undeniable. The rhythm and different shift types working in hospitality really make you realise that. Eating healthy food allows the body to get its nutrients but also for us to feel good and this is reflected in how clearly we think and process information, especially as I get older, this is more and more true. In recent years, I have discovered yoga and meditation and i am a better person for that. Mental Health is something more and more talked about and nearly as much as physical health nowadays but really they go hand in hand on lots of levels.
Katya Lukina, Front of House: For me, the priority is keeping a sound mind because then everything else will follow. When my mind is overstimulated and stressed out, I can tell my body is in the same gear; my abdomen tenses up and I get pulled into not so helpful habits like eating junk food. Being at peace in your head makes it so much easier to navigate through life in a more healthy way. I find it that I tend to have fewer cravings and appreciate doing things that require more discipline. But equally, sometimes all it takes is a walk around the park to clear the mind. So I guess it’s a two-way street really.
Eloise Pontefract, Head of Drinks and Sustainability: Working in hospitality, it has never been more important for me to consider Sound Mind, Sound Body, and keep these in balance with each other. We work long, often late hours so it is hugely important to prioritise rest and relaxation. On my days off I like to spend time in the kitchen cooking something tasty which I think nourishes mind as well as body. Myself and my colleagues have been going to a community sauna once a week before work which is amazing for clearing the mind and soothing tired muscles (shout out Hackney Wick Community Sauna!). I also find the cycle to and from work helps to clear my mind of any worries or stresses from the day. I think spending time in nature is really important for my mental health so I try to do this as much as possible, even in London.
Sophie Black, Floor Manager: Having a sound mind and body is intricately connected with others when you work as part of a restaurant team. I feel so lucky to be surrounded by caring individuals who all do their best to uplift one another on days when a sound mind is harder to maintain! That being said, during a busy week of restaurant activity lots of people need your attention and it can sometimes be tricky to feel grounded as an individual. I’ve found that it helps to start my days off with an exercise class that holds a lot of my focus, like yoga or boxing.
Julia Kuniewicz, Front of House: The body and the mind are physical vessels for the human experience. The food on our plates is a representation of whole universes interacting with each other — charged with networks of connection, intergenerational wisdom and reserves of energy. Eating it is just another way to practice, to connect and to be. Silo’s ethos is exactly that food is friendship, environment, and the world, always in motion and interconnected. To feel sound in my body and mind over food is to embody and honour those connections.
Also joining our lineup of incredibly creative women who are more than a sneakerhead, we have sneaker artist Stella Stockbridge.
We got up close & personal with Stella, the self-taught portraiture artist who’s forever pushing the boundaries on what sneakers are and what they can be, we got to learn more about her love for graffiti and street culture.
“I choose sneakers as my canvas because I just love them so much, they allow me to express myself in ways I don’t always feel I’m able to verbally.
I feel like the industry is becoming more inclusive slowly, but there still needs to be a lot of work. There’s so many brands that don’t do inclusive sizing and there’s not very many female designers on internal teams, so I’d like to see a lot more of that, and I hope the future will be a little bit more female dominated.”
We asked Stella what brands could do to level the playing field a bit more… “I just feel like there should be more opportunities for females to get involved, like the amount of sneakers I see that are made for women that are just not what women want at all. I feel like we need to have female input in designs and go back and let them be part of the process from the beginning.
I feel like the future will become more inclusive and diverse, and I really hope there’s more creativity that’s gonna be involved within the sneaker community. I definitely see it going that way.”
We asked Stella which designers or brands are exciting for her at the moment: “I just got my first pair of Helen Kirkham shoes and I love them so much. I got the GEL-LYTE IIIs I think they are, and I opened them and I was like, oh my god, I love them so much, they’re so creative and so unique, and I really wanna see more of that kind of stuff in the industry.
It just feels nice to be heard and represented in the community and to see someone that’s had similar experiences to me and (also looks like me!)
When it comes to those who inspire me in the community, I love Nicole McLaughlin’s work. It’s just really cool and so creative. I think Helen Kirkum’s gotta be on there as well of course. And my friend Mel, (@mlcka) she does these really cool sneaker sculpture creations, and it’s just crazy – and I feel like the industry’s just gonna get more and more creative.
I’m more than a sneakerhead because I bring colour and creativity to the game, and allow everyone to express themselves with their sneakers.”
For fall 23, we embrace the nostalgic vibes of the early 2000s with our latest collaboration with PUMA, focusing on the Velophasis silhouette. This latest coming together pays homage to the ‘Y2K’ fashion trend that emerged in that era, blending various styles from sleek and minimalistic to outright outlandish.
The Footpatrol x PUMA Velophasis merges futuristic design elements with a modern runner silhouette, capturing the essence of the Y2K trend. From a futuristic colour palette of metallic silver and icy blue hues, the heavy use of translucent material and squishy gel branded heel logos (inspired by the inflatable furniture craze of the late 90s/early 2000s), or the reflective under-layers beneath the air mesh panels, all elements add to the attention to detail.
To enhance the early 2000s aesthetic, we went a step further by creating visuals reminiscent of console game demo discs found in computer game print magazines (complete with nostalgic menu button sound effects). The visuals are a trip down memory lane which includes an old school menu system categorised into Metal, Gel, and Ice elements, come together with a soundtrack that transports you back in time.
Shop tehe PUMA x Footpatrol Velophasis in-store and online here!
Since 2018, there has been a skunkworks division within Nike known as ISPA. Every year, their mission is to come up with creations built around the idea of ‘Improvise, Scavenge, Protect and Adapt’.
Aimed at blurring the lines between performance and lifestyle, ISPA always aim to deliver a functional and practical offering. This can even bring a sense of ‘progress over perfection’ in the aim to highlight areas like sustainability. Like the ISPA Link Axis, the design is built of only three parts. All these are cleverly linked together via the lacing system and heel tab to create a zero glue sneaker with each part recyclable.
To celebrate their FW23 collection, we hopped on a plane to Sweden to meet up with artistic creator, Jimmy Söber, otherwise known as Formbark. With the huge rise in outdoor trends, his work has become super relevant in the sense of blurring the lines between art and the outdoors. With a ‘improvise, scavenge, protect and adapt’ aesthetic, we tasked Jimmy with creating 6 bespoke outfits to highlight each of Nike ISPA’s latest designs.
Check out the latest from ISPA online here!
Footpatrol: Hey Jimmy, huge thanks for joining us at Footpatrol to celebrate the ideas of Nike’s ISPA division with your Formbark identity. For those of our audience who aren’t aware of your page, could you give us a bit of an introduction to yourself and your work?
Formbark: Hey, thanks for having me! Well, I’m an artistic creator who explores the relationship between nature and man, the organic and synthetic, the grown and the created. Based in the Swedish countryside I spend a lot of time in the woods. I’m forever mesmerised by the multitudes of scale, making me appreciate the natural world not as a mere backdrop but also for our human existence. We can’t be too grateful for getting to be a part of.
For the past year, my focus has been on garment and fabric based outfits, modelled by myself. Common for all my work no matter the discipline, there is always a great influence and presence by nature. This is where I find most of my inspiration. I tend to bring that into whatever I’m trying to create with interesting combinations between materials, textures, shapes and colours. Making these outfits, I bring in lots of natural raw materials to get a wider aesthetic and symbolic toolbox. And also, I just love moss.
FP: What steered your work in the direction of creating these outfits, and composing these looks?
Formbark: Well, a while back I made a couple of sculptures out of sticks, moss and scraps of fabric. I made small scale garments and gave them little accessories which turned them into character like figures emerging from the same universe as most of my previous work.
It reminded me of character creation in games. Choosing what pieces of armour to match, how to dye them etc, it’s something I’ve always really enjoyed. That combined with an ever-present interest in clothes made me want to explore if I could create characters in another way, with more possibilities and greater freedom when it comes to the parts of which they consist. Because that’s what they are to me: characters. It’s not just composing an outfit, it’s creating a character, who in the best case will carry a healthy amount of mysticism with it. Evoking the beholder’s curiosity as to who this is and what they might be up to. Questions I never have any answers to, but really enjoy pondering.
FP: ISPA, Improvise, Scavenge, Protect and Adapt… That’s Nike’s breakdown for this skunkworks like division but what do those words mean to you and how do they connect to your work?
Formbark: All of those things are actually a really big part of my way of working. Scavenging maybe the most prominent in this case. All the natural materials I gather myself from my surroundings whilst a lot of garments and fabrics are things I’ve randomly come across when least expecting to. Aside from those found items, I also work a lot with things from my own wardrobe, meaning there is a great amount of improvising and adapting as well.
Working with what I have to hand whilst still trying to create something exciting but that is an aspect I really enjoy. It forces me to be creative in another way. Now the ideas are sparked by my findings, rather than that I get an idea and then acquire what I need to realize that idea. In addition to being an enjoyable process, it is also a way to inspire the protection of our resources, to make do with what we have and utilize it to its full potential. All of this extends to my way of life in general, making it a very natural approach to my work for me.
FP: When it comes to foraging for your materials, we imagine it to be quite an enjoyable part of your work? The not knowing of what you’ll find or discovering something new that might take your work in a different direction, is that correct or is it actually a challenging piece to the puzzle?
Formbark: Foraging for all the natural materials like moss, sticks, bark is definitely one of the most enjoyable parts of this process. Like you say, the element of not knowing what to expect and being open to that surge of inspiration when you find something, and just following that not knowing where it will lead you. There are also endless ways to view nature. Whether it’s large or small, as long as you keep looking you’ll always be amazed and surprised. That said, it can definitely be challenging as well. Trying to reinvent how to make use of certain materials without it feeling repetitive can be really hard, but then again, it forces me to be creative and pushes my imagination.
Another challenging aspect is deciding whether to take or leave any given piece of nature. Because in the end, everything is already in its right place, and for me to rip something out of that perfect picture is something I morally struggle with constantly.
FP: When looking at Formbark, we notice you’re more than just your garment creations but actually more of a multidisciplinary artist. From intricate figurines to paintings, they all have a similar feel to what you do now. Did each one inspire the next step?
Formbark: Yes, they all very much inspire each other. Progression in one discipline might help me find new ways of doing things in another. However, I don’t see it as steps along a linear path of progression, but rather as several parallel paths. Sometimes you might find something alluring in the distance and to get closer to explore, experience and experiment with that, you may have to switch paths. Sometimes a path is blocked, so in order to progress you’ll have to choose another one for a bit, and then maybe come back to the original path later on. So yes, a lot of back and forth between different paths that are all kind of traversing the same universe.
FP: So, you’re currently based out in the Swedish countryside, not too far from Stockholm. I’d be intrigued to see what your creations would look like if you were to visit different areas of the globe. Is this something you’ve thought about doing or does the Swedish countryside stay true to what Formbark is?
Formbark: It’s not something I’ve given any thought to actually, not until now anyways. As I mentioned earlier, there are endless ways of viewing and framing nature, so I feel there is still so much potential and the more I look, the more I see. In a way, the nature around here is what I identify with the most, having spent so much time in it, making it feel like the obvious choice for my work.
Here I know what grows when and where. I see the changes from year to year and have formed a relationship with this environment that feels deeply personal, making it something I feel confident working with. But I’d love to broaden my horizons in this aspect. Again, a lot because it would open up new practical possibilities for my work, but also because it would undoubtedly spark further inspiration and appreciation for the sometimes unfathomable, overwhelming and mind-bending beauty of nature.
FP: So, when we came over we brought with us a mixture of ISPA silhouettes that included a number of intriguing options. From the Universal, Mindbody and the Link, what did you enjoy about creating designs for each one?
Formbark: Well, all of the silhouettes are right up my alley, except for maybe the coloring on the Link though I think that is also why I enjoyed working with that shoe the most.
I had an opportunity to do something in terms of colours that I don’t think I would have ever done otherwise. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to pull it off, but I’m happy with the way it turned out. When it comes to the Universal, I really like the weird organic vibe they have! The low, wide profile really planted it firmly on the ground, a super combination with skinny legs. Add to that the slipper-like feel and the colours, they were a treat to work with. As for the Mindbody, they are just a perfect match for the aesthetics I’m going for. It was nice to be able to have shoes to build the rest of the outfits on, something to give me direction when creating these characters, especially such unique shoes with great diversity between them.
FP: Out of the outfits you pieced together, did you have a particular favourite?
Formbark: That’s hard to say! There’s always some parts of an outfit that I’m happy with, and others I wish I’d done differently. I might like a colour scheme or certain organic details but regret the way I did the layering, or how I’ve combined materials. Some of that stuff is hard to see when just putting the outfit together but might reveal itself when looking back at the pictures. In this case though, I really like the big hat, as well as the maroon Universal outfit. The moss turban really had something too. Especially since it wasn’t something I hadn’t planned for, but just something that turned out that way.
FP: Well, I think that’s it from us at Footpatrol Jimmy. A huge thanks once again for hosting us at your house and for taking the time to sit down with us and share a bit more with our audience. Do you have any words of wisdom that someone may have told you one day that you’d like to pass on to our audience who may be pursuing a career within the world of art?
Formbark: Anytime! And thank you for setting all this up, it’s been great!
I don’t know. I’ve never tried to pursue anything, as far as art goes, and I think that might be as close to wisdom I’ve ever gotten on the subject. To just do what you want and like to do, and for that sole reason, is to me the only way to approach the process. That will also enable you to create something truly personal, and that is when art gets really interesting.
